Strawberry confusion

[mr-cecil]

I've been reading about strawberries and I'm now confused about when to plant strawberries in the ground.
One book I read seems to suggest that you can plant strawberries grown in pots (I guess than means from seed) in spring and expect to get a crop the same year. The same book says that strawberries propagated from runners should not be permitted to fruit in the first year and should be planted out in autumn.

So, I'm wondering:
1) when you buy strawberries from a nursery / garden centre are they grown from seed or from runners?
2) I happen to have some plants I propagated from runners, but I still have not cut the runner off. Is this a problem?

Basically I want to try and get a crop this year.

[Pa Snip]

Have grown strawberries for many years and try to cut runners as soon as they have root growth. This gives both parent and runner plant better chance of strengthening up.

Whenever possible we remove flowers to stop fruiting during first years growth, again on principle of strengthening up.

As for planting time we do either autumn or spring, as time permits.

[mr-cecil]

Is it too early to be planting runners now?

Do you think garden centres are selling runners?

[Pa Snip]

If cutting, moving or planting runners outdoors there is always a risk at this time of year from frost.

Planting in cold frame or under fleece/poly tunnel may give enough protection to get runners underway

You don't tell us where you are so no idea how applicable that risk of frost may be.

I would be guessing at to whether gardens centres sell runners or seeded

[snooky]

I buy my strawberry plants from Lidl and/or Aldi.At £2-99 for six plants and a choice of three varieties of well grown plants,cheaper than a garden centre and if any losses occur then not so heavy on the pocket and I have always had good crops.

[mr-cecil]

I'm in North Yorkshire, near Scarborough. I do have quite a large cold frame.

[Geoff]

I grow Strawberries in four beds. First year, second year, third year and fallow - usually a crop of Peas. This only lets the ground rest for one year but I have used this pattern for about 10 years and so far I haven't noticed any disease issues, the main variety I grow is Symphony and I only bought the initial stock. Each year I peg good runners into pots, separate them when well rooted then plant them out in the early Autumn. I do let them crop the first year, the second year plants give the best crop but the third year plants are OK then get dug up and put on the bonfire. Since I have had the polytunnel I have rooted a few extra runners and put them in bigger pots, I move them into the heated greenhouse when I start it up then on to the tunnel when the greenhouse gets full. They give a good early crop then I throw them away.
You don't say if your runners are in pots or in the bed with the older plants that I guess is the case. Afraid I can't decide whether to suggest you let them crop where they are or move them when things warm up a bit, I think they would move and crop with a decent root ball.
I doubt any garden centres produce their own plants but buy them in from a specialist, if I was buying I would use mail order. The majority of plants are I believe raised neither from seed nor runners but by micro-propagation. A catalogue I have (Pomona) says:
Our hand graded strawberry plants are raised on selected sites in the UK...and are guaranteed to be free from pests and diseases. Fresh dug plants are available in October and November and will crop the following season. Coldstored plants are available from March to early July. These will crop 60-90 days after planting.

[sally wright]

Dear Mr Cecil,
go to Rogers nurseries out at Pickering, they will have all the strawberry plants and advice you need.
regards Sally Wright. (ex-pat of Scarborough)

[Elaine]

Hi Mr Cecil. All our strawberries are grown in buckets on trestle tables around our patio. We increase/replace plants by propagating from runners, which are pegged into 3" pots and separated from the parent plant as soon as they have rooted. They remain in their 3" pots overwinter and are then planted up into the big buckets in spring. We let them fruit in the first year and after three years, they are disposed of.
We usually have 200 or so plants and get good crops....lots of lovely fruit to eat and plenty of jam too.

[mr-cecil]

I called Pomona and it seems that buying strawberries from cold store is the way to go. They say that they will arrive bear rooted. Thanks for the tip.

[mr-cecil]

Out of interest, does anyone have a view on how mulch / protect strawberries? Should you use straw, plastic sheet, or buy some of these special strawberry mats?

[FredFromOssett]

My experience a few years ago of strawberry mats is that they were far too small to prevent the fruits from touching the soil; the fruiting stems all seemed to stretch several inches beyond the mats, so they still got dirty. I have previously used straw with reasonable success, but will be planting through weed control fabric for my new bed this year.

[mr-cecil]

By weed control fabric do you mean the stuff that is more like horticultural fleece, or do you mean the thicker more durable stuff that does not let any light through and is used to suppress weeds?

[Westi]

I use the heavy duty black membrane with the squares on it & have had it for years, (about 10 now but it si the heavy duty one), & it's got another couple of years left until I have to give up 2nd allotment. When I move everything onto the one allotment I will buy the same stuff but with the holes premade & sealed so none of those black fibres try to escape.

It keeps the fruit clean, the runners have nowhere to start unless I choose to pot them up, & I haven't had too many issues with slugs & snails. I also find the birds mostly leave them alone, my theory on this is the fabric makes a noise when they walk on it or they are just a bit too exposed.

Westi

[Geoff]

I don't bother using anything.