Glad to hear that you are on the mend
.
As I promised this is how I made my first stand alone Onion bed. I followed this advice from W.Robinson's home of the Mammoth Onion with great success, this is a more upto date version than mine it states that they have been growing onions in the same bed for a 140 years but in my book it was 120 years which has just put 20 years on me
Hope this is of some help
Kind regards
Kevin
Onion Advice
Cultivation tips for the onion (Allium Cepa) from Robinson's Mammoth Vegetable Seeds.
Growing Onions
Mammoth Onions are best sown from Late December to Late February. A tray 30cms X 30cms will hold approximately 100 seeds. Using John Innes sowing compost sow the seeds and cover with the same compost. Germination should take approximately 2 weeks at a temperature of 12deg C. Keep the seeds moist but never over water at this stage. We have found that a higher germination temperature will in many cases damage the seeds, thus giving poor results.
After germination and when the seedlings are at the 'crook' stage, transplant the young seedlings into stronger compost. At this stage individual pots may be used. Lift the seedlings gently as they are very easily damaged. Water only when the seedlings require it. Botrytis at this stage can be devastating so ventilate on all possible occasions but still keep the temperature at 12deg C.
Transfer the young plants out of the greenhouse to a cold frame during Mid to Late March. This ensures the plants are well hardened off prior to planting outdoors from Late April. Planting times will vary according to the area and conditions at that time. Onions grown for exhibition will benefit from being covered by cloches at this time.
The smaller onions both red and white varieties are grown using a similar method. They can however be sown later.
The Onion Bed
Choose an open site with good drainage. For exhibition onions, trench 50cm deep. Fork up the bottom of each trench if solid. Into every four square yards of the bed work the following:
4 Forkfuls of pea, bean or tomato haulms
1 garden barrow of well rotted farmyard manure
5oz Bonemeal
6oz Sulphate of Potash
Every 5/7 years only 2oz Sulphate of Iron.
First scatter the haulms at the bottom of the trench, and then mix the fertiliser into the bed. It is essential that the greater proportion of the manure should be near the top of the bed, some within 10cms of the surface. This will enable the roots to come into contact with the manure during the early stages of growth. This work is best done in the Late Autumn or Early Winter when reasonably dry. The bed can then be left rough over the winter period.
In March work the top into a fine tilth adding the following to an area of 4sq yards.
2oz Superphosphates
1oz Hydrated Lime or 1.5lbs Calcified Seaweed
There is no need to firm the ground unless it is very light. When conditions allow, and this will depend on several factors, plant out the now hardened off onion plants. The usual time for planting is Mid April to Mid May. An advantage is gained by the use of cloches both before and after planting. If cloches are placed over the ground prior to planting the area will warm and there is less chance of a check in growth. Care should be taken after planting not to leave covers over for too long. We have found that 3-4 weeks is sufficient.
Onions can be grown on the same ground for many years; our own onion bed is now 140 years old and has grown onions continuously for this time. However a strict health routine must be followed if you require using the same ground again and again. If any onions are suspect always remove not only the plant but also a small amount of soil from where the onion was growing. Hopefully this will remove any unwanted bacteria in the soil. The ground will also benefit from a watering of Jeys Fluid after the crop has been harvested; this again will kill any unwanted bacteria or fungi.
If the onions are required for general kitchen use or it has not been possible to prepare the ground in the autumn we suggest the following. When possible work into the ground one barrowfull of farmyard manure to 4sq yards. Prior to planting add a good general fertiliser. Calcified Seaweed can be added at this time. During the growing season never allow the onion bed to become dry, especially during June and July when the onions are growing well.
The planting distance for onions can vary according to the result required. For exhibition we suggest a planting distance of no nearer than 30cm X 30cm, for kitchen use this may be reduced to 20cm X 20cm.
Feeding
Feeding onions on established beds should not be necessary. Feeding on ground, which has been cultivated for a number of years, can be harmful. If feeding is required it must be done in the early season. Over feeding can result in onions with thick necks and poor keeping qualities. Nitrate of Soda can be given as a feed at the rate of 1teaspoon to 1gallon of water. Water on all occasions when onions are dry.
Harvesting
Onions will store better if harvested with a little growth left in the plant. For exhibition lift the onions 10-14 days prior to the show to give the bulb time to dry. Cut the root and top off, leaving enough top to tie down for the show bench. Remove any dead or broken skin and leave to dry in a warm dry area. A greenhouse is ideal for this purpose. Exhibitors will after 7 days be able to turn the tops over for good presentation. For tying down we have found that rubber bands work very, well unless specified by the show schedule. As the neck of the onion shrinks so does the rubber ban, this avoids re-tying.
For kitchen use the onions once dry can be stored in a cool but frost free shed or garage.
Problem Solving
Every season brings its own problems and each year can be different from another. This is part of the joy of gardening. However there are several problems which can occur each year but with careful propagation and planting these can be avoided.
For control of Onion Fly dust around the plant with pirimiphos-methyl. Any onion with maggots inside should be lifted and destroyed before the maggots go into the soil to pupate.
Spraying with a fungicide such as mancozeb can control Downy Mildew on onions. Increase the spacing of onions to improve air circulation around the plants and keep them weed free.
Thrips can be controlled by a spray with Malathion; permethrin or garlic concentrates spray.
White rot is perhaps the most serious of the problems as there is no chemical control available. The infected onions must be lifted and destroyed. Take also the soil that the onion was growing in. Do not store or re-use this soil but dispose of it. The ground can then be given a thorough cleaning by using a soil sterilant.
© Robinson's Mammoth Vegetable Seeds
More information about growing vegetables can be found at the website: Mammoth Onion
