Quick germination.

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Geoff
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PLUMPUDDING
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Thanks Geoff, I thought it was you who gave the info. Elixir don't have as extensive a range but the prices look reasonable.
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Johnboy
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Good morning Pawty,
Nicking the outer skin is really quite easy. I have my old faithful penknife but any sharp knife will do.
Hold the seed firmly down with a finger pressed down to expose a small fraction of the seed casing and run the knife down the finger nail and simply make a downward cut. (then there is no chance of cutting yourself) This cut should be done to the opposite side of the scar. With things like runner beans and broad beans it is reasonably easy and if you manage to wing the cotyledons of the bean no harm will be done but best not to and you will very soon be able to regulate how you make your cut.
Soaking of beans should really be done for no more than eight hours. So immerse in water before you go to bed and strain off first job in the morning. The laying out can be done later in the day when you have the time.
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Gerry
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Thank you Geoff.

Regards,
Gerry.
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Johnboy, does splitting the edge help them open, mine always come up with a little hat on. Does the split enable them to shed the skin and leaves to open more easily?
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Pawty
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Thanks Geoff - I'll update you on how I get on!

Any thoughts on whether it would be OK to delay starting the beans (runner and French ) off until mid June? Feels late, but I may not have a choice.

Pawty
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Johnboy
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Hi PP,
If there is a split in the skin there is no purpose to nicking. This should only been done when the skin is entire.
The nick is only to admit moisture to the inner casing to initiate the germination programme.
I asked the question about your sweetcorn germination because I experimented some years ago by nicking the shell of Sweetcorn and that had a very similar response time without the propagator. I do use propagators but not for vegetable seeds as a general rule.
Sincerely,
JB.
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Shallot Man
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I use nail clippers.
PLUMPUDDING
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Hi Johnboy, I was referring to the nick how big is it? I was imagining if you cut off some edge it would be more like a slit, which would open more easily to allow the leaves to unfold. I'll try it anyway next time they have all come up now.
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Johnboy
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Hi PP,
The nick has only to allow ingress of water so I have just been down the tunnel and nicked a broad bean and the actual exposure of the cotyledon is only about 1/16th of and inch.
Many seeds such as sweet pea are more difficult to hold for nicking. Another method is to use a file on really hard skins or use sandpaper to wear a hole in the skin.
I have also checked on the broad beans I sowed last week and they are sending shoots towards the surface and should emerge in another two days or so.
JB.
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Thanks Johnboy, I've tried a slightly different method of germinating all the beans this year. I've given them more water and kept them quite moist in the deep cell trays, but kept the temperature in the propagator at 20C thinking this should get fast germination and avoid them rotting in colder conditions. It has worked a treat and they are all up in five days. That is for dwarf French, climbing french and runners. The squash, pumpkins and Florence fennel have all germinated in about the same time too.
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Johnboy
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Hi PP,
Glad that your beans are up and going. I will not think of sowing mine until next week at the earliest. Here we suffer from late frosts into the second week in June so end of first week is the earliest they would go out and my thoughts are that if they have started to climb then they take a check-back when planting out.
I know other people who pregerminate beans by putting them into moist MP compost and putting them in a plastic bag and hanging them on a hook on the inside of their shed.
We used to grow bean plants for the retail trade and used to place them scar down on about and eggcupful of compost in 126 module trays and put them in the misting unit. It is amazing the amount that failed to germinate properly so were discarded and never planted.
JB.
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Johnboy
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Of the 90 broad bean seeds I pregerminated 89 are now through the the surface and are a good deep green colour. The one that failed was attacked by something no longer apparent in the compost. The heart had been eaten out. I have no idea what it was.
I will grow these on in pots for at least two weeks and depending on the root structure they will be planted out.
The planting out area is all prepared and ready but because of arthritis my trusted friend will do the planting out for me.
There will be two rows of 30 and one of 29 planted in a chevron pattern and all beans will be 9" apart.
This lot of beans will go mainly for freezing for my family.
My first peas although a little late are growing apace these to were soaked and pregerminated by soaking for 8 hours and then in cotainers until signs of germination then sown in the pea propagator in guttering without any heat but with protection from rodents in the form of an aviary wire cage top. These will be planted out this coming weekend. As soon as the guttering is free the next lot will be laid down.
I generally do three sowings of peas and are mostly frozen and distributed throughout my family. Own frozen peas are nothing like their "Birds Eye" equivalent they have the flavour of freshly picked peas and one lot will end up on my plate with the turkey at Christmas.
JB.
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Shallot Man
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Tried a new idea this year for my runner beans. Put 24 in warm water for a couple of hrs. Then into moist compost with no more watering. Had 100%. Never had this result before.
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Pawty
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I put broad beans straight in the ground. In two rows I had 3 no shows - not bad! I normally then grow a few in individual pots to fill the gaps. However, A lovely guy on the lotty gave me a few spare plants. He doesn't mess around by putting seeds in individual pots. He fills a big tray with soil/compost, scatters with as many beans possible, covers, and as soon as they have a few leaves transplants them straight into the ground. No messing. No fancy root trainers or pots. Apparently he's done it like this for years. I'm liking his style!
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