How do you cope with weeds?

Can't identify that mould? Got a great tip for keeping slugs at bay? Suggestions for organic weed control? Post them here...

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Beryl
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May one ask what your day job is Tony. I imagine it must be something to do with gardening from you reply.

Beryl.
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peter
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Tony does really interesting stuff applying IT to agricultural machinery, so (for example) a weedkiller sprayer would only apply the solution to the weed plants only, as its vision system could identity food plants and weed plants.

Much better than GM or chemical research, it could lead to robot weeders that could uproot the weed & collect it for composting. :D
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oldherbaceous
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Tony doesn't work at Cranfield does he?
Kind Regards, Old Herbaceous.

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Beryl
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That's interesting Peter. Thanks.

Beryl.
farmer jon
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having 3 plots to maintain then the secret is to keep down the seedbank of weedseeds. in late sept all empty ground is treated to a spray of glyphosate but at a time when 8 hours of dry weather is guaranteed. this works more slowly at this time of year but means by dec all foliage is dead & can be raked off prior to winter digging. ground treated this way is still clear of weed even now as it is being tilled up for sprouts etc.
growing large numbers of potatoes which are ridged when planted,presents a problem with the first flush of annual weeds. however a fine rose on a watering can using weedol gets rid of these before the spuds push through.weedol becomes inactive on contact with soil so is perfectly safe. a derivative is used on the farm to burn off the tops prior to harvest so they don't clog up the potato harvester.
in amongst other crops , the secret is to keep the soil moving so weeds can't get a hold,even when no weeds are present , keep the hoe moving ,preferably on a dry day. time is just as essential as the hoe !
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Tony Hague
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oldherbaceous wrote:Tony doesn't work at Cranfield does he?

Close, but not quite - we used to be at Silsoe Research institute till it was shut down.

Farmer jon has a good point about timing; weeds are best hit with a hoe quite early, ideally when they are at the "white thread" stage when they are vulnerable to damage and easily desiccated.
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Johnboy
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I would suggest that this thread on "How do you cope with weeds?" is now seriously off course.
What Badgers have to do with the subject I have no idea.
Perhaps if Badgers are more interesting a new thread should be opened.
Or is it me just being a grumpy old sod! :wink:
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peter
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Thread now split.

Please could people stay a bit more on-topic.
The odd comment or two maybe,.but off topic arguments and poetry! :shock: :) :) :)
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Beryl
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Yes, already apologised - sorry Peter.
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Panteg Produce
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I have terrible trouble with Mares tail!,wich I spray with no great sucess.
As for thr rest I rely on the hoe and hand weeding.
Beryl
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Try crushing the Mares Tail first PP. I think you will find it will absorb whatever you are spraying with better. Something with glysophate and perseverance.

Best of luck

Beryl.
Westi
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Hoe, Hoe, Hoe! Tried the no dig compost cover up this year but the weeds love it as much as the plants - and believe me you can't just pull them up - they are still attached to the main root which is then even deeper to dig down to get out! (Couch grass).

However on a positive note with the no dig I have loads of poppies coming up among the raspberries and it looks grand - really pretty!

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farmer jon
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Panteg Produce wrote:I have terrible trouble with Mares tail!,wich I spray with no great sucess.

mares tail has a layer of silicon on it which renders it waterproof in a way to sprays. the idea is to damage this layer so the spray can gain access. if you have a lot of mares tail then give it a good knock about with a cane. apply a good spray of glyphosate but ensure you have 6-8 hours rainfree afterwards.
I have cleared mares tail from one allotment when I first took it over by leaving it free of crops for 12 months & treating the mares tail with dax root-out. it took 3 apps over the year but killed 95% . bear in mind though that this weedkiller is long lasting in the soil for several months so make a note of when it is applied. only use it if there are no other plants or shrubs in the area you have the mares tail.
the following year all sorts of crops were grown with absolutely no visible hormone damage & produced outstanding harvests.
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I agree with all farmer-jon has said but just a small point. The Dax Root-out I think you will find is no longer available to us home gardeners but Roundup do a similar one which is very effective to.

Beryl.
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