Cucumber seeds - which way up?
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Vertically with the pointy end facing West. ! The only stipulation I've found is dont plant them flat as rain might pool and set in rot. Cheers, Tony.
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I think that the above advice (not flat) is traditional. I think also that I've read (maybe even in KG !) that it does not bear scrutiny, and made no difference in trials.
Some seed it is worth thinking about how they emerge, e.g. unlike most beans that push up a loop of stem first, broad beans emerge cotyledons first, so emerge best if the seed is sown scar down.
Some seed it is worth thinking about how they emerge, e.g. unlike most beans that push up a loop of stem first, broad beans emerge cotyledons first, so emerge best if the seed is sown scar down.
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I accidentally broke off a cucumbers growing tip the other day, left in a pot of water it rooted and made a new plant. Two for one if you buy as a plant.
Sit down before a fact as a little child, be prepared to give up every preconcieved notion, follow humbly wherever and to whatever abyss nature leads, or you shall learn nothing.
By Thomas Huxley
http://www.wildrye.info/reserve/
By Thomas Huxley
http://www.wildrye.info/reserve/
All Beans should be sown SCAR DOWN. With Broad Beans a radicle appears and then splits to form the plumule and a true radicle.
With Runner Beans there is a tit on one side of the scar and with very close scrutiny you can see the emerging point of the radicle on the smooth part at the opposite end of the scar to the tit. This radicle will grow straight down without any hindrance if sown scar down and then adventitious roots form very quickly. As the plumule grows the two halves of the cotyledon splits and the plumule extends lengthways and then turns through 90 degrees to send the hooked plumule to the surface and as it reaches the surface the plumule unwinds to reveal the growing point undamaged and your first two true leaves will form. The cotyledons remain underground and provide food for the growing plant until exhausted they drop off the plant and by this time the plants own root system is adult enough to cope.
With French Beans both climbing and dwarf the process is similar but with both the cotyledons appear above ground. This is why Mice attack French Beans because they are attracted to the cellulose in the cotyledons and an easy meal. Mice will also burrow and take the cotyledons from Runner Beans and this is really why many people grow in pots under cover giving protection and plant out when 1. the weather permits and 2. the plant is advanced enough to withstand an attack by Mice.
JB.
With Runner Beans there is a tit on one side of the scar and with very close scrutiny you can see the emerging point of the radicle on the smooth part at the opposite end of the scar to the tit. This radicle will grow straight down without any hindrance if sown scar down and then adventitious roots form very quickly. As the plumule grows the two halves of the cotyledon splits and the plumule extends lengthways and then turns through 90 degrees to send the hooked plumule to the surface and as it reaches the surface the plumule unwinds to reveal the growing point undamaged and your first two true leaves will form. The cotyledons remain underground and provide food for the growing plant until exhausted they drop off the plant and by this time the plants own root system is adult enough to cope.
With French Beans both climbing and dwarf the process is similar but with both the cotyledons appear above ground. This is why Mice attack French Beans because they are attracted to the cellulose in the cotyledons and an easy meal. Mice will also burrow and take the cotyledons from Runner Beans and this is really why many people grow in pots under cover giving protection and plant out when 1. the weather permits and 2. the plant is advanced enough to withstand an attack by Mice.
JB.
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I noted with interest NB's experience with the cucumber growing tip - I have successfully grown tomatoes on from rooting the side-shoots nipped out - again FREE plants !
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Hi Adam, it works to root tomatillos that way too, more new plants. The method is very useful if you have a particularly fine strong plant to reproduce it as an identical one. I keep the shoots in the semi-shade till they're rooted, bright sun can be too much when there are no roots.
Sit down before a fact as a little child, be prepared to give up every preconcieved notion, follow humbly wherever and to whatever abyss nature leads, or you shall learn nothing.
By Thomas Huxley
http://www.wildrye.info/reserve/
By Thomas Huxley
http://www.wildrye.info/reserve/
- Tony Hague
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Thanks for that tip Johnboy, I did not know it applied to other bean types. I'll give it a go !
Hi Diane,
I now realise that I failed to answer your question about sowing Cucumber seeds.
Once again I plant then scar down as I do with all the plants in that family and my strike rate I should think is over 90%. Almost no failures.
You will find that sometimes the outer skin/case of the seed will break surface and prevent the leaves opening. This skin/casing can be very carefully eased off the covered leaves and the plants will then grow on unhindered.
So sorry to have gone off stream.
JB.
I now realise that I failed to answer your question about sowing Cucumber seeds.
Once again I plant then scar down as I do with all the plants in that family and my strike rate I should think is over 90%. Almost no failures.
You will find that sometimes the outer skin/case of the seed will break surface and prevent the leaves opening. This skin/casing can be very carefully eased off the covered leaves and the plants will then grow on unhindered.
So sorry to have gone off stream.
JB.