Last year we went to Tatton Park and bought some sweet pea seeds from a specialist. I asked him the best way to grow them and did exactly what he told me. They have either not shown their heads or they have damped off and died, I am very disappointed as I really did have high hopes for these seeds.
Can any one tell me what I have done wrong.
I sowed in late September only watering from the base and leaving the top half in dry. They were in the polytunnel all winter but I did put plastic cloches over them when it was really freezing. (They were planted in those long plant pots I use for broad beans).
Sweet Peas
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Geoff
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I grow Sweet Peas every year but I don't Autumn sow as I think trying to keep anything going over Winter is something of a lottery, this year will probably be my last with Japanese Onions for example.
Probably no use to you now but here is my method. I sow in the first half of February, in the diary for the 11th this year. Make up an open compost something like 3 parts mpc, 1 part JI2, ½ to 1 part sharp sand. I grow 10 to 15 seeds each of 10 or 11 named varieties so I use the compost to fill 5" half pots. I water the pots to just damp them then water them again with Cheshunt compound to just nicely moist and put them in the propagator for 24 hours to acclimatise. I put a thin layer of fine vermiculite on the top of each pot then space the seeds across the surface, no soaking or chipping, then use the blunt end of a pencil to push them in about ½" and level off with a finger. Back into the propagator. By this time of the year I have started up the heated greenhouse so as soon as most of a variety has germinated I move them into there, for example, last year I sowed on 10th February and started moving them on the 20th. When the leaves start opening out flat I prick them out into individual tall pots, again last year I pricked out 123 out of 145 sown on 23rd February. Sometimes a variety doesn't germinate very well, if more than half come up I usually prick those out and put the pot back in the propagator; if very few come up I go digging and usually find they are still hard so I chip and put them back in the propagator. By these methods I get some more but I didn't note the final total in last year's diary. I grow them on in heated greenhouse to about 3 or 4 pairs of leaves then pinch them out. When the side shoots are nicely showing I move them to the cold greenhouse, 13th March last year. They grow into nice sturdy plants and by the time it is fit to plant them out, 12th April last year, the roots are nicely filling the pots. I protect them with fleece until part way through May as I have described before.
You might not be able to do it this way but I have found Spring sown plants growing away without check give very good results, we usually pick the first small bunch in mid June.
Probably no use to you now but here is my method. I sow in the first half of February, in the diary for the 11th this year. Make up an open compost something like 3 parts mpc, 1 part JI2, ½ to 1 part sharp sand. I grow 10 to 15 seeds each of 10 or 11 named varieties so I use the compost to fill 5" half pots. I water the pots to just damp them then water them again with Cheshunt compound to just nicely moist and put them in the propagator for 24 hours to acclimatise. I put a thin layer of fine vermiculite on the top of each pot then space the seeds across the surface, no soaking or chipping, then use the blunt end of a pencil to push them in about ½" and level off with a finger. Back into the propagator. By this time of the year I have started up the heated greenhouse so as soon as most of a variety has germinated I move them into there, for example, last year I sowed on 10th February and started moving them on the 20th. When the leaves start opening out flat I prick them out into individual tall pots, again last year I pricked out 123 out of 145 sown on 23rd February. Sometimes a variety doesn't germinate very well, if more than half come up I usually prick those out and put the pot back in the propagator; if very few come up I go digging and usually find they are still hard so I chip and put them back in the propagator. By these methods I get some more but I didn't note the final total in last year's diary. I grow them on in heated greenhouse to about 3 or 4 pairs of leaves then pinch them out. When the side shoots are nicely showing I move them to the cold greenhouse, 13th March last year. They grow into nice sturdy plants and by the time it is fit to plant them out, 12th April last year, the roots are nicely filling the pots. I protect them with fleece until part way through May as I have described before.
You might not be able to do it this way but I have found Spring sown plants growing away without check give very good results, we usually pick the first small bunch in mid June.
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Kleftiwallah
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Come on Geoff, let's have a para break now and again!
Yes I agree with you. I bought some from a specialist and only 50% grew. I had better results with some old seed I'd had so long I've forgotten when! Cheers, Tony.
Yes I agree with you. I bought some from a specialist and only 50% grew. I had better results with some old seed I'd had so long I've forgotten when! Cheers, Tony.
Thanks Geoff I will try that method, though I am disappointed as they were expensive seeds. I love sweet peas and always grow loads, last year I thought I had grown too many so gave a lot away only to find mine failed and I had no back up to put in. Won't do that again. Not been walking in your direction recently but have plans to do so soon. 
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glallotments
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We sow quite late last year we even left it 'til the first week in April and still had plenty of flowers. Usually we sow in the second half of March. We only grow for cut flowers though so don't cordon them etc.
visit my website http://ossettweather.com/glallotments.co.uk/index.html
blog http://glallotments.blogspot.com
and school gardening website http://theschoolvegetablepatch.co.uk/index.html
Weather blog http://ossettweather.blogspot.com/
blog http://glallotments.blogspot.com
and school gardening website http://theschoolvegetablepatch.co.uk/index.html
Weather blog http://ossettweather.blogspot.com/
Hard luck about your autumn sown sweet peas, Catherine. I gave up sowing ours in autumn because I found that spring sown plants always caught up with them and one doesn't have the worry about them overwintering.
I sowed ours this morning, as it happens, directly into tall roottrainers, mostly one seed to each compartment with just a few with two seeds in them, having soaked the seeds overnight. They are now on the windowsill in an unheated westfacing spare bedroom. The moment they are through the soil, they are moved to the greenhouse which, at this time of the year, is unheated but can be slightly warmed with an oil-filled electric tube heater (bought at Dawsons in Clitheroe, by the way, Catherine!) if the weather turns really cold again.
At this time of the year, I bring two large bags of potting compost into the greenhouse which warm up nicely when (if?!) the sun shines during the day and the sweet peas stand on these, giving just enough bottom heat to stop them from freezing.
My OH sows his sweet peas much later, usually mid March, which means we get later sweet peas as well as early ones. He likes strong colours, you see, and like the subtle ones!
I sowed ours this morning, as it happens, directly into tall roottrainers, mostly one seed to each compartment with just a few with two seeds in them, having soaked the seeds overnight. They are now on the windowsill in an unheated westfacing spare bedroom. The moment they are through the soil, they are moved to the greenhouse which, at this time of the year, is unheated but can be slightly warmed with an oil-filled electric tube heater (bought at Dawsons in Clitheroe, by the way, Catherine!) if the weather turns really cold again.
At this time of the year, I bring two large bags of potting compost into the greenhouse which warm up nicely when (if?!) the sun shines during the day and the sweet peas stand on these, giving just enough bottom heat to stop them from freezing.
My OH sows his sweet peas much later, usually mid March, which means we get later sweet peas as well as early ones. He likes strong colours, you see, and like the subtle ones!
Hi Monika, I am going to sow mine this weekend. We have a load of manure arriving this Saturday, (here's hoping that the weather will hold off for Saturday as it should have arrived last Saturday and we know what that day was like. 
So tomorrow I am going to bring the compost into the polytunnel as suggested and then go from there. I did not know that Dawsons sold seeds!!
My OH wants to plant the aubergine seeds and get them into heat.
So tomorrow I am going to bring the compost into the polytunnel as suggested and then go from there. I did not know that Dawsons sold seeds!!
My OH wants to plant the aubergine seeds and get them into heat.
Sorry Monika eyes said one thing brain said another -
PLUMPUDDING
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I sowed mine last week in moist multipurpose compost, one each cell in roottrainers. They had a little bottom heat and the majority of them have germinated. They are seeds I saved from last year's plants. I didn't soak them or cut bits of them or anything. I find just a few take a lot longer to germinate, but eventually most of them do.
Have you had a look to see what has happened to yours? You will know if they have rotted, started to germinate and died, or disappeared altogether, or are still there but not viable. It will give you a bit better idea of what is going on (or rather not going on).
Have you had a look to see what has happened to yours? You will know if they have rotted, started to germinate and died, or disappeared altogether, or are still there but not viable. It will give you a bit better idea of what is going on (or rather not going on).
Hi Catherine,
Some years back I was advised by another professional grower that to soak the seed over night and drain first thing in the morning and cover with a damp cloth and leave for 24 hours by which time the seeds will be showing signs of germination. Make your planting holes and insert the seed but do not cover immediately and await signs that germination has begun in earnest and then cover with sifted compost. The pots of compost should be prepared and allowed to take up water from the bottom before you make your seed holes. Always keep some seed back and when one has failed hoick it out and replace it. This information was from somebody that was selling to the public and found that if they were selling a certain number to the pot this method prevented arguments at the point of sale.
I have tried the method and it worked well for me. No heat was used.
JB.
Some years back I was advised by another professional grower that to soak the seed over night and drain first thing in the morning and cover with a damp cloth and leave for 24 hours by which time the seeds will be showing signs of germination. Make your planting holes and insert the seed but do not cover immediately and await signs that germination has begun in earnest and then cover with sifted compost. The pots of compost should be prepared and allowed to take up water from the bottom before you make your seed holes. Always keep some seed back and when one has failed hoick it out and replace it. This information was from somebody that was selling to the public and found that if they were selling a certain number to the pot this method prevented arguments at the point of sale.
I have tried the method and it worked well for me. No heat was used.
JB.
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Geoff
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Another method - sounds interesting.
The method I described came about when I was still working. I had a colleague who grew Sweet Peas quite seriously but only for his own enjoyment. He went to Southport Flower Show every year and looked for the winning cultivars then searched out the specialist growers selling seeds. He made a point of asking each supplier what was the best method of getting good germination. He came to the conclusion that there were as many methods as there were growers! We decided that the best method was do nothing other than ensuring that the seeds didn't sit in a soggy environment.
I decided to look up current advice.
Here is the Sweet Pea Society version :
For best results use named varieties or cultivars (see Gallery) in good potting compost and do not overcrowd – plant 1 seed to a 3 inch (8cm) pot or 6 to 8 seeds to a 6 inch (15cm) pot. Place the pots in a cold frame or greenhouse and cover them with newspaper until the seedlings have germinated. If you are planting in January to February your seedlings may need a little gentle heat to germinate. Make sure you stop the heat as soon as germination has occurred, otherwise your plants will get leggy.
Problems with germination? Some varieties have hard coats and may be more difficult to germinate. You could try soaking the seed overnight before sowing (and only sow those that have swollen) or nick the seed’s hard coat by gently rubbing against some sandpaper, on the side away from the 'eye' or scar on the seed. However, most people find that this is not necessary and there is a belief that soaking causes undue stress and weakens the plants.
Here is the RHS version :
Some cultivars have a hard seed coat and may be more difficult to germinate. Chip the hard seed coat opposite the 'eye' (small, round scar) using a sharp penknife to help moisture entry and germination. Don't soak the seeds as they are prone to rotting.
• Sow seed individually in root trainers or 9cm (3in) pots filled with seed compost; or five to seven seeds to a 13cm (5in) pot, spacing the seeds 2-3cm (1in) apart. Cover the seeds with 1cm (0.5 in) of compost.
• Water in, cover the pots with clear polythene or glass and keep at about 15°C (59°F). After germination remove the covering.
• If not sown individually, plant out single seedlings into 9cm (3in) pots once they have reached about 3.5 cm (1.5in).
• If sown in autumn, transfer the seedlings to a cold frame to prevent the seedlings to become leggy. Over winter, keep the frame opened as much as possible, but protect from heavier frosts.
• If sown in spring, harden off seedlings before planting out.
• Plant out seedlings after the final spring frost 20-30cm (8-12 in) apart.
We got our RHS seed distribution seeds today and they always come with a little booklet of advice both general and species specific. The advice for Lathyrus (this will be for perennials which seem to be slower to germinate) is :
Pre-soak in cold water; chip seed. 55-64ºF, 30-90 days to germinate.
Incidentally in general advice they say "once all the pots are filled, soak them with an upturned fine rose attached to a watering can and allow excess water to drain away". I've always been keen on watering first then sowing, unlike Gardener's World who water last, but the RHS aren't even consistent in their advice.
Isn't gardening fun!
The method I described came about when I was still working. I had a colleague who grew Sweet Peas quite seriously but only for his own enjoyment. He went to Southport Flower Show every year and looked for the winning cultivars then searched out the specialist growers selling seeds. He made a point of asking each supplier what was the best method of getting good germination. He came to the conclusion that there were as many methods as there were growers! We decided that the best method was do nothing other than ensuring that the seeds didn't sit in a soggy environment.
I decided to look up current advice.
Here is the Sweet Pea Society version :
For best results use named varieties or cultivars (see Gallery) in good potting compost and do not overcrowd – plant 1 seed to a 3 inch (8cm) pot or 6 to 8 seeds to a 6 inch (15cm) pot. Place the pots in a cold frame or greenhouse and cover them with newspaper until the seedlings have germinated. If you are planting in January to February your seedlings may need a little gentle heat to germinate. Make sure you stop the heat as soon as germination has occurred, otherwise your plants will get leggy.
Problems with germination? Some varieties have hard coats and may be more difficult to germinate. You could try soaking the seed overnight before sowing (and only sow those that have swollen) or nick the seed’s hard coat by gently rubbing against some sandpaper, on the side away from the 'eye' or scar on the seed. However, most people find that this is not necessary and there is a belief that soaking causes undue stress and weakens the plants.
Here is the RHS version :
Some cultivars have a hard seed coat and may be more difficult to germinate. Chip the hard seed coat opposite the 'eye' (small, round scar) using a sharp penknife to help moisture entry and germination. Don't soak the seeds as they are prone to rotting.
• Sow seed individually in root trainers or 9cm (3in) pots filled with seed compost; or five to seven seeds to a 13cm (5in) pot, spacing the seeds 2-3cm (1in) apart. Cover the seeds with 1cm (0.5 in) of compost.
• Water in, cover the pots with clear polythene or glass and keep at about 15°C (59°F). After germination remove the covering.
• If not sown individually, plant out single seedlings into 9cm (3in) pots once they have reached about 3.5 cm (1.5in).
• If sown in autumn, transfer the seedlings to a cold frame to prevent the seedlings to become leggy. Over winter, keep the frame opened as much as possible, but protect from heavier frosts.
• If sown in spring, harden off seedlings before planting out.
• Plant out seedlings after the final spring frost 20-30cm (8-12 in) apart.
We got our RHS seed distribution seeds today and they always come with a little booklet of advice both general and species specific. The advice for Lathyrus (this will be for perennials which seem to be slower to germinate) is :
Pre-soak in cold water; chip seed. 55-64ºF, 30-90 days to germinate.
Incidentally in general advice they say "once all the pots are filled, soak them with an upturned fine rose attached to a watering can and allow excess water to drain away". I've always been keen on watering first then sowing, unlike Gardener's World who water last, but the RHS aren't even consistent in their advice.
Isn't gardening fun!
Hi Geoff,
It's like saying how many ways of killing a cat!
By soaking over night allows the ingress of moisture and by draining them off and placing them under a moist cloth allows you to note the pregermination activities and those that do not begin to swell are possible non-starters. With the method I described the pots are watered from below and the holes made and the peas left visible and you can then note when germination has actually taken place at which time you close the hole. My friend used to sow 9 to 9 cm sq a pot and by using the method he had perfected he got 9 plants. To a nurseryman that is a blessing. I noticed in a Garden Centre last year they sowed 9 to a pot but only charged for 6 making out if you got more than 6 you had a bargain. They still charged to price for 9 if the truth be known!
JB.
It's like saying how many ways of killing a cat!
By soaking over night allows the ingress of moisture and by draining them off and placing them under a moist cloth allows you to note the pregermination activities and those that do not begin to swell are possible non-starters. With the method I described the pots are watered from below and the holes made and the peas left visible and you can then note when germination has actually taken place at which time you close the hole. My friend used to sow 9 to 9 cm sq a pot and by using the method he had perfected he got 9 plants. To a nurseryman that is a blessing. I noticed in a Garden Centre last year they sowed 9 to a pot but only charged for 6 making out if you got more than 6 you had a bargain. They still charged to price for 9 if the truth be known!
JB.
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Geoff
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I got 126 plants from 130 seeds with my main sowing, a selection of varieties from Wallis. Then we got a free packet with a magazine and I got another 21 out of 23, not bad considering they were T&M that I usually rubbish!
My row is going to be 100 so the people we usually give spares to are going to do well this year.
Planted 88 today (8 x 11 varieties) leaving space for 12 of the freebies that were sown a lot later. I thought they looked well when I planted them then protected them with the same fleece as in the picture I have posted before taken in 2006.
My row is going to be 100 so the people we usually give spares to are going to do well this year.
Planted 88 today (8 x 11 varieties) leaving space for 12 of the freebies that were sown a lot later. I thought they looked well when I planted them then protected them with the same fleece as in the picture I have posted before taken in 2006.
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