Why do some people trim the tops off leeks when planting them out? I've also heard of people trimming the roots too.
Martin.
Trimming Leeks
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alan refail
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I have not grown leeks for a few years now. I assume that the trimming was to do with the planting out of leeks in large holes and not filling in. Trimming the roots made them sit better in the hole, and I suppose the top trimming made them all look uniform in the row, though I can think of no other reason. I was always told to trim by older gardeners, but rarely bothered. It is generally not advised now. All that is needed is to make sure the roots get well down into the planting hole.
http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles06 ... nt_veg.asp
Alan
http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles06 ... nt_veg.asp
Alan
Cred air o bob deg a glywi, a thi a gei rywfaint bach o wir (hen ddihareb Gymraeg)
Believe one tenth of what you hear, and you will get some little truth (old Welsh proverb)
Believe one tenth of what you hear, and you will get some little truth (old Welsh proverb)
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oldherbaceous
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Good morning Melliff,i would say the reason for cutting the tops by a third , would be to reduce the amount of leaf area the plant has to sustain while getting it's roots established.
The same as when you take cuttings of large leafed plants.
The same as when you take cuttings of large leafed plants.
Kind Regards, Old Herbaceous.
There's no fool like an old fool.
There's no fool like an old fool.
Hello Melliff,
I have grown leeks for many years and have never trimmed the roots or the tops and they've always done ok, certainly tasting fine and even winning prizes in the local horticultural show. I don't think it's make any difference if you do.
I have grown leeks for many years and have never trimmed the roots or the tops and they've always done ok, certainly tasting fine and even winning prizes in the local horticultural show. I don't think it's make any difference if you do.
Hi Melliff,
The topping and tailing of Leeks is really a blast from the past from a time when they were grown in nursery rows and transplanted. When they were lifted from the row damage occurred to the foliage and the root and when grown in the row the root structure is very broad and difficult to plant out so this covers quite a few points raised by others.
Topping and tailing got rid of a number of sins and gave the plant a chance to grow on unencumbered without damaged roots or foliage.
I for one, for several years now, have sown my leeks in modules and the root spread and damage to the foliage no longer occurs so I gave up topping and tailing. Sowing in modules is by far the best method of starting leeks off as they are so easy to handle.
JB.
The topping and tailing of Leeks is really a blast from the past from a time when they were grown in nursery rows and transplanted. When they were lifted from the row damage occurred to the foliage and the root and when grown in the row the root structure is very broad and difficult to plant out so this covers quite a few points raised by others.
Topping and tailing got rid of a number of sins and gave the plant a chance to grow on unencumbered without damaged roots or foliage.
I for one, for several years now, have sown my leeks in modules and the root spread and damage to the foliage no longer occurs so I gave up topping and tailing. Sowing in modules is by far the best method of starting leeks off as they are so easy to handle.
JB.
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bottomleypots
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Alan,
a Welshman not growing leeks-isnt that against the law in Wales??!
a Welshman not growing leeks-isnt that against the law in Wales??!
"An hour digging is better than two hours in the Gym"
i start my leeks in a normal (10" x 8"?) seed tray. i grow on in this till planting out time. i then use the crow bar method of planting by making holes first and popping in leaks and filling up each leek-hole with water. I do actually trim the roots, cause i find easier to put them down in the hole. The seed tray method is good in terms of space saving:four rows with about 1 inch apart between each seed. produces satisfactory harvested leeks! about 2" diameter leeks!
I don't feel the issue if topping and tailing is a critical issue either way.
I don't feel the issue if topping and tailing is a critical issue either way.
Hi Dewwex,
There is really no difference in growing in a seed tray to growing in a nursery row because with both methods you disturb the root. By planting in individual modules there is no root disturbance so no need for trimming. I agree that it makes very little difference in the long run which ever way you elect to start them off but trimming takes time and that is what most gardeners are short of. By the time you have uprooted your plants, trimmed the roots and begun planting I will have done the planting and be well on to the next job in hand and this is all that I am trying to say.
JB.
There is really no difference in growing in a seed tray to growing in a nursery row because with both methods you disturb the root. By planting in individual modules there is no root disturbance so no need for trimming. I agree that it makes very little difference in the long run which ever way you elect to start them off but trimming takes time and that is what most gardeners are short of. By the time you have uprooted your plants, trimmed the roots and begun planting I will have done the planting and be well on to the next job in hand and this is all that I am trying to say.
JB.
"By the time you have uprooted your plants, trimmed the roots and begun planting I will have done the planting and be well on to the next job in hand " don't talk rubbish!!!
Sowing leeks, planting leeks is hardly one of the most time consuming jobs anyhow.
by the time you have sterilised/cleaned out your modules and filled up modules with soil, i'm having a cup of tea. I can make equally inane statements.
Sowing leeks, planting leeks is hardly one of the most time consuming jobs anyhow.
by the time you have sterilised/cleaned out your modules and filled up modules with soil, i'm having a cup of tea. I can make equally inane statements.
Last edited by dewwex on Thu Apr 12, 2007 4:49 am, edited 1 time in total.
the reason why i trim the roots is that i find i can get the leek to rest deeper in the borehole. thus blanching effect is better. i think i would struggle to push down modular grown seedlings with compost root ball down the bore hole. i actually plant my leeks out in early july. hardly a critical time saving part of the season. If i was using the trench method of planting than i think i would use modular grown seedlings.but i don't. i have my drills covered in newspaper and straw or mypex to hold down edges at plot preperation stage. i have an adversion to weeding myself!! my leek drill is prepared when i do my potato drills.
Hi Dewwex,
LOL! Even I am allowed to elaborate at times.
My Leeks are grown in a 6" 'V' trench. I then take the seedlings off the bench and use a dibber and plant 2/3rds of plant. Being in modules the roots are compact and need no trimming and very easily fall to the bottom of the dibber(ed) hole. I then water then in very carefully. As the growth occurs during the year the earth from the side of trench is pushed in and ultimately I earth them up by a couple of inches. I generally end up with a blanched shank of 12"-14". The variety that I grow is Tornado which is what has taken the place of 'Goliath' and have some very good results. Tornado is said to have a certain amount of tolerance to Leek Rust. Cross fingers I do not get rust and not even with other varieties.
As for cleaning off module trays it takes about as long as it takes you to trim one leek.
I bung them into a tank of Jeyes Fluid.
JB.
LOL! Even I am allowed to elaborate at times.
My Leeks are grown in a 6" 'V' trench. I then take the seedlings off the bench and use a dibber and plant 2/3rds of plant. Being in modules the roots are compact and need no trimming and very easily fall to the bottom of the dibber(ed) hole. I then water then in very carefully. As the growth occurs during the year the earth from the side of trench is pushed in and ultimately I earth them up by a couple of inches. I generally end up with a blanched shank of 12"-14". The variety that I grow is Tornado which is what has taken the place of 'Goliath' and have some very good results. Tornado is said to have a certain amount of tolerance to Leek Rust. Cross fingers I do not get rust and not even with other varieties.
As for cleaning off module trays it takes about as long as it takes you to trim one leek.
I bung them into a tank of Jeyes Fluid.
JB.
It really does not take that long to trim 1 seed tray of leeks. have you a phobia to scissors or something. 
Seriously though, i think the trench method you using is a better method if you want long white shanks. its a better way really, for producing top quality leeks!
Seriously though, i think the trench method you using is a better method if you want long white shanks. its a better way really, for producing top quality leeks!
Hi Dewwex,
I was trimming Leeks for many more years than modules have been about so I am very familiar with trimming. It is really simply that I now grow most things on the bench as opposed to directly into the soil in nursery beds. I have arthritic hands now and would find trimming rather difficult but when it comes down to it it's very much a case of doing as you please there is no rights or wrongs about it.
When we used to grow in nursery rows we did get damage to both roots and foliage when transplanting but that was more due to carelessness than anything else.
Have a great crop!
JB.
I was trimming Leeks for many more years than modules have been about so I am very familiar with trimming. It is really simply that I now grow most things on the bench as opposed to directly into the soil in nursery beds. I have arthritic hands now and would find trimming rather difficult but when it comes down to it it's very much a case of doing as you please there is no rights or wrongs about it.
When we used to grow in nursery rows we did get damage to both roots and foliage when transplanting but that was more due to carelessness than anything else.
Have a great crop!
JB.
