Kitchen Garden Forum

Hi everyone,

I am back again with more howard 350 problems! After repairing the clutch cable, each time I ull in the clutch which is very stiff the engine stalls. This is even before putting it in gear. Any ideas? How stiff should the clutch be? Many thanks in advance!

Dovesails, your explanation of your problem is a little obscure.

The clutch has a brake associated with it to stop the gearbox rotating while you change gear.
Perhaps this is engaging before the clutch itself dis-engages?
Or is the clutch just sticking?

They have seperate adjustment.

Do you have the manuals?

Hi Dovesails
I agree with Peter, the small friction pad attached to the adjustable arm should not come into contact with the drum prior to the clutch cone disengaging.
Try moving the pad back away from the drum first, to establish whether this is the problem , if it is then adjust the pad accordingly.
If you have handbook, check it out.
Chris

Thanks Peter & Hortiman,

I wasn't aware of that brake. I shall have another go. Out of interest how difficult is your clutch to operate - mine seems very stiff. Is there anything (other than a poor cable ) that would cause this?

Thanks

Hi Dovesails
Try checking the cable first by freeing one end and then trying to pullit back and forth in the outer cable.
The clutch mechanism could be seized up if it has been standing for a long time and has become corroded, or if the clutch release bearing is seized.
Keep trying !!

Hi again Dovesails
Sorry i did not answer your other question, My 350 is in fact a 352 which has a belt and jockey pulley type of clutch. I have had 350s in the past but never had any clutch problems.

Persevere
Hortiman

I have two 350's, one with K181 & one with K141, both have the cone clutch.

The K181 clutch, f-i-l and I had to rebuild, the bearing was gone and the brake pad gone, previous owner had made one out of webbing. We used a 5-tonne press for the bearing, joiys of a f-i-l motor mechanic.

The K141 came for a song as it had been fuelled with twostroke and left shedded. It's clutch has needed zero attention.

All parts are still available, even the aluminium friction cones, I can PM you a good source if needed?

If you take out the "walking-stick" bolt and fold the dome back off the clutch all bits can be removed without further structural disassembly. The key in mine had gone a bit misshapen, had to reuse the original, with a bit of gentle file de-burring, as the new key was a bit oversize.

Really good bit of kit the 350.

I did have five rotovators at one point, but am down to three runners after disposing of the two partial GEM's.

Hi all,

I finally got around to investigating the alleged clutch problem. It turned out that some electric fencing cord was tightly wrapped around the tyne shaft and wedged against the housing. This was so tight that it wouldn't turn!

Once cut away everything worked fine. I had made a cardinal sin of ASSUMING it was connected with the clutch cable failure.

Anyway, thank you all again for your input.

Well done!! Is electric fencing now banned???

Some say "you learn by experience" others may say
"there is no fool like an old fool".

Anyway pleased that you are sorted now.

Regards

Hortiman
PS The nylon straps from brick packs are just as bad they rip up the oilseals as well.