Kitchen Garden Forum

I want to move my Rhubarb, is now a good time to move it, should I take off the stalks first, and then lift and divide?

Cheers

Compo

Hi Compo,
It would be far better if you could wait just a while until the plants have died down naturally for the winter.
You will have to wait for the plants to settle into their new position before you can pick any so if you are really partial to Rhubarb you will have none next year. May I suggest you shift some this winter and leave some there to give you a taster next year then move the rest next winter.

JB, how big should the crowns be? I have some old which needs moving and probably dividing and some newish which needs lifting as it was planted (not by me) far too deep and is difficult to pick.

Also, how do I divide the stuff?

A very early good morning to you Chantal,
When you have dug the plants out you will see the way the large old roots are and then if you prise those apart by the roots you will then see how best to divide the plant. Take into consideration the positions of the terminal buds and how the roots lie and cut them apart. I think the last lot I did was with the aid of small axe. (a bit hoary)
You really want to end up with at least one terminal bud per root. If perchance a root should come off in the process and there is no bud do not despair just bung that in as a seperate plant and keep everything crossed.
JB.

Thanks JB.

I'm going to move my rhubarb too (it's that type of year!) so thankyou for asking the question Compo and thankyou JB for the advice.

To follow on from the moving rhubarb theme, very interesting!!! Where can I buy some? I have been trying for 18 months now, we love it! and it I think it is quite attractive to grow in a corner! Hopeful

Hi RBC,
Most of the Autumn Catalogues that should be with you shortly will have plants for sale. There seem to be three main varieties produced at present they are;
Victoria, Timperly Early and Stockbridge Arrow but there are many many varieties that are about but do not seem to come up for sale.
It is possible to grow your own plants from seed and that takes about 3 years before they are ready for picking but by buying plants, you plant one year and do not take any the first year after but can take a small picking in the third year. Even if anybody gives you a plant/Root with buds you still have to take nothing the first year and a very limited pick the following year. It's kind of 'Hobsons Choice.'

To quote from my experience. I ordered some rhubarb crowns from Marshall's several years ago, they sent me cut sections which arrived in December. I planted them and they went mouldy. Disappointed I asked for replacements, once again they arrived in December, I soaked in systemic fungicide but this was not good enough to save them. Next time I got them from D T Brown, no trouble as they arrived in March or April when growth could start.
I therefore urge you to move or divide your crowns in early spring and not before.
If anybody wants Timperley Early the crowns in my polytunnel will have to be cleared out this coming spring and as I already have a new plantation established the old ones are up for grabs to callers.
The new ones are under the grapevine to economise space, the rhubarb is only shaded by the vine when it no longer needs the light. A good example of Symbiosis.
Allan

That is interesting....my old grandfather always said to lift rhubarb leave it on the surface to let the frost get at it

I lifted some to give away the other year and did just that...by gum they did do well

Could it be the variety...my stock was already on the site and I haven't a clue what it is....I call it rhubarb ..in truth I didn't know there were several varieties

Most of us inherit rhubarb on plots and in gardens or get given it and it never comes with a label! The main thing is to divide it when it needs it and to FEED it, FEED it, FEED it. It tends to get neglected but it responds beautifully to a bit of care. New or neglected rhubarb needs time to recover - hence leave it in the first year.

Feed it with what and when?
My information is that the only feed it is likely to be short of is nitrates, if you are paying for it anything else could be waste of money. The mulching effect of compost or muck may be of benefit however.
Once established the roots go very deep.
Allan

I purchased some 'Red Champagne' rhubarb from T&M this year, two out of the three very small crowns survived. They had run out of stock when I asked for a replacement, in the end sent me some gift vouchers that covered my original purchase, so not complaining! Plants that survived grew on well, will be picking them lightly next year.

I was also given the advice about digging up dormant crowns and leaving them exposed to frost before dividing and replanting from an exhibitor at Malvern last Spring (sorry can't remember which one, had lots of rhubarb varieties for sale though ) I tried this out when moving an old unidentified clump in my back garden, worked a treat, now have 3 large plants from one partially rotten original. Gave them all a manure duvet after planting, will do the same again this spring.

Hi Deb,
I had heard of letting the Rhubarb get well frosted
and them put your manure over the top, as you politely say 'a Duvet of manure.'
Mine always get well frosted up here before I get around to the Rhubarb so by mistake I have been doing it most years. I agree with Jane FEED, FEED, FEED!!
I think that is the very first thing I was able to do for my grandfather and that was about 1935 so have had contact with it since then.
I just wonder how many people waste space in their tunnels by growing Rhubarb there. It would be interesting to hear from a few.
JB.

I need to move my rhubarb - can I wait until it starts emerging from the ground? (don't know where it is!)