We are allowed to use hosepipes on our allotments and most of us are being very good - either not using them at all or just for a once a week evening watering. some however are being totally selfish and watering willy nilly all day which makes me cross!!! over the weekend i was reading an interesting chapter in the "gardening from which" book on what needs water when. i was thinking of printing this off and offering it around (in a busybody sort of way!) but would like some of our experts to cast their eyes over it and see if they agree with the advice first!!
Group 1 - watering not necessary once plants established
Artichokes, asparagus, beetroot, brocolli, brussels sprouts, cabbages, carrots, garlic, onions, pumpkins, rhubarb, shallots and swede.
Overwatering causes excessive leaf growth at expense of edible parts.
Group 2- water as seedlings and then once - 3 weeks before harvest
Summer cabbage, calabrese
Group 3 - water required from start of fruit/tuber formation
Broad and French beans. Peas, maincrop potatoes, sweetcorn.
Again, overwatering causes excessive leaf growth at expense of edible parts.
Group 4 - water regularly - good soaking once a week
Aubergines, celery, cucumbers, Florence fennel, leeks, lettuces, peppers, early potatoes, radishes, runner beans, spinach and chard.
Group 5 - water twice a week
Courgettes, marrows, tomatoes.
Soil only needs watering if it is dry 15cms down
Helenx
watering
Moderators: KG Steve, Chantal, Tigger, peter, Chief Spud
Hi Helen,
I think that it is very dangerous to make generalisations because the art of growing is a combination of too many factors. Over watering will generally produce a plant that becomes lazy and thereafter expects water regularly and fails to make the necessary root structure. I think it is safe to say that more plants die each year from overwatering than underwatering.
The person who has put these vegeatables in groups has done so expecting a normal rainfall pattern and his red line appears to run straight down the page rather than waivering. In essence it is not incorrect but is not entirely correct as seasonal factors pay a very large part of the equation.
As an example there is no mention of Cauliflowers which in my experience if once allowed to get too dry will never produce a satisfactory crop.
I applaud your choice of topic and it will be interesting to read the forthcoming letters 'cos I'm sure there are going to be a good few.
I think that it is very dangerous to make generalisations because the art of growing is a combination of too many factors. Over watering will generally produce a plant that becomes lazy and thereafter expects water regularly and fails to make the necessary root structure. I think it is safe to say that more plants die each year from overwatering than underwatering.
The person who has put these vegeatables in groups has done so expecting a normal rainfall pattern and his red line appears to run straight down the page rather than waivering. In essence it is not incorrect but is not entirely correct as seasonal factors pay a very large part of the equation.
As an example there is no mention of Cauliflowers which in my experience if once allowed to get too dry will never produce a satisfactory crop.
I applaud your choice of topic and it will be interesting to read the forthcoming letters 'cos I'm sure there are going to be a good few.
JB.
Hi Helen2, Am a bit confused by group 4, does it mean water every day with a good soak once a week or a regular good soak once a week only.
15 cms/ 6inches seems very deep to me, if so it would keep the weed seedlings down.
Great info I'm sure it will save a lot of people bad backs from humping unnecessary water around.
15 cms/ 6inches seems very deep to me, if so it would keep the weed seedlings down.
Great info I'm sure it will save a lot of people bad backs from humping unnecessary water around.
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oldherbaceous
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I agree with Jonhboy on this, the chart is alright if the weather conditions could be relied upon, but with the weather conditions fluctuating so much each month the chart isn't so accurate.
The other very valid point Johnboy made, is about over watering.
I think this probably causes more problems to young plants than anything else put together, theres been so many times people have said something is not growing well, and when you go and have a look, they are absolutely sodden.
This is a big problem with people just starting into gardening, and i must add i have over watered plenty of times myself over the years.
Interesting what they say about watering carrots.
Kind regards Old Herbaceous.
Theres no fool like an old fool.
The other very valid point Johnboy made, is about over watering.
I think this probably causes more problems to young plants than anything else put together, theres been so many times people have said something is not growing well, and when you go and have a look, they are absolutely sodden.
This is a big problem with people just starting into gardening, and i must add i have over watered plenty of times myself over the years.
Interesting what they say about watering carrots.
Kind regards Old Herbaceous.
Theres no fool like an old fool.
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Jenny Green
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I agree it's too much of a generalisation for a novice gardener, and erroneous in parts. I certainly wouldn't put pumpkins in the first group, although generally I agree that the rest of them I never water. Having said that I'll probably give my cabbages a water tonight because it's been so hot and dry and they're under fleece.
Yes, dangerously too general for the beginner to take as a rule of thumb. No mention of soil types either. Nothing will kill a plant faster than overwatering on heavy clay. No, it should really be telling the readers to dig a trowel into the soil away from the roots of the plant and use their common sense.
Also, what about the personality of the gardener? For example, I rarely water my peas but that isn't because they don't need it - it's because I'm a lazy cow!
Yes, dangerously too general for the beginner to take as a rule of thumb. No mention of soil types either. Nothing will kill a plant faster than overwatering on heavy clay. No, it should really be telling the readers to dig a trowel into the soil away from the roots of the plant and use their common sense.
Also, what about the personality of the gardener? For example, I rarely water my peas but that isn't because they don't need it - it's because I'm a lazy cow!
in reply to arthur, the book implies that "regular watering" is once a week and that plants suffer from more regular "light waterings". I know it is difficult because everything looks lovely when it is sprinkled with water and the soil damp! But i have always understood that is the roots that need the water - not the top growth. Another point is that if water is directed at the plants themselves rather than the surrounding soil aren;t we discouraging weed growth too? I am very much a novice compared with many kitchen garden regulars (only in my fifth year)so i listen to the older hands religiously whilst desperately trying to remember my dear departed dad's advice!
Hello Helen2
Its a good general guide but it does require fitting to your own local circumstances.
By far the best account for watering vegetables I've ever found is in a chapter in 'The Complete know and grow Vegetables' written by some of the boys at Wellesbourne. Sadly long out of print but well worth looking out for if like browsing round secondhand bookshops - it should be in every serious veg growers reference library! Crops are simply divided into three groups: A those which respond to frequent watering, B those which give maximum respose when watered a moisture-sensitive stages C those which are not so responsive as others and should be watered prudently.
Spacing of plants and depth of soil are other factors to consider. For example wider spaced plants on a deep soil will require far less watering than closer spaced ones on a shallow soil simply because their have a larger volume of soil available for water and nutrient uptake.
john
Its a good general guide but it does require fitting to your own local circumstances.
By far the best account for watering vegetables I've ever found is in a chapter in 'The Complete know and grow Vegetables' written by some of the boys at Wellesbourne. Sadly long out of print but well worth looking out for if like browsing round secondhand bookshops - it should be in every serious veg growers reference library! Crops are simply divided into three groups: A those which respond to frequent watering, B those which give maximum respose when watered a moisture-sensitive stages C those which are not so responsive as others and should be watered prudently.
Spacing of plants and depth of soil are other factors to consider. For example wider spaced plants on a deep soil will require far less watering than closer spaced ones on a shallow soil simply because their have a larger volume of soil available for water and nutrient uptake.
john
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Colin Miles
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I moved from the heavy clay soil of Hertfordshire to the relatively light soil here and the difference in watering requirements are enormous just because of the soil conditions. When you add to that the very hot weather of this past week I think the suggestions are actually quite unhelpful. Basically you need to water according to the weather and soil type and that means keeping an eye on the plants as much as possible, especially when first planted out when, to coin a phrase, every little helps. Last year I had a poor runner bean crop amongst other failures simply because I hadn't adjusted to the increased need for watering.