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? plastic drip bottles
Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 2:03 pm
by sandy_v
How do you set up old plastic drink bottles to drip/seep into containers. I tried last year and either all the water came out at once or none came out.
Cheers
Sandy
Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 3:13 pm
by vicki
Have you got the drip feeder tops to screw on them - I think you can get them from Betterware/ Kleeneze ? They are not too expensive I don't think - a couple of pounds for 3 from what I remember.
Vicki
Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 10:12 pm
by Compo
I tried some of them and the holes are too big so the water is dripped out in an hour, try plugging the holes with panel pins or twigs so the water seeps out............I was not impressed however even with tweaking them..
Compo
Drip waterers
Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 10:17 pm
by Anonymous
I think it's one of those things that you look at in the catalogues and think 'what a good idea'.
When it comes to the practicalities of using them, I think it's a case of 'back to the drawing board chaps'. They just don't work, That's my experience anyway, for what it's worth.
valmarg
Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 10:24 pm
by Compo
I am quite interested in some collapsible plastic water tanks that I have seen, with a proper drip pipe system!! Trouble is I can't remember where I saw em!!
Plastic drip bottles
Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 11:20 pm
by Brenjon
I will soon be putting my tomatoe plants in large empty plastic paint pots ( i think 10 litre)in the greenhouse. If I am away for a few days i intend cutting the base off 4 litre milk bottles leaving the cap on and drilling a small hole in the cap before inserting into the compost of the paint pots and filling with water, hopefully providing a slow drip into the pots. It seems right in theory but I will not know until I have tried it out
has anyone tried this and how did it work out?
Regards Brenjon
Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 11:39 pm
by Johnboy
Hi Brenjohn,
I should experiment with your idea long before you go on Hols. You are apt to get no flow due to a vacuum lock. You actually need something with an air admittance valve to prevent this vacuum occuring.There is a way of doing this by fitting a rigid tube through the lid, whilst remaining water tight,this tube makes a vent when the cannister is up turned.The outlet for your water needs to be a miniscule hole next to vacuum break.
I don't seem to be explaining this awfully well but if you cannot get what I mean please tell me and I'll try and rephrase it.
Posted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 7:56 am
by sandy_v
BrenJohn,
That's one of the things I tried last year which resulted in no water coming out. Because of the vacuum as explained above.
Sandy
Posted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 9:57 am
by sandersj89
Hmmm, am I missing something, how will a vacume occur in an open topped container as described?
Me being think is possibly the answer!
Jerry
Posted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 1:33 pm
by Trevor Holloway
How about trying a "wick syphon" = a piece of string from a water reservoir at a higher level to your plants, magically (capilary action) the water goes from the pot to the plants !
Trial and error will be required to get the flow correct.
Please report on your findings as I suspect we all will be away from our preciuos crops at some point.
Posted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 1:44 pm
by Compo
Johnboy you are a bit wrong and a bit right. You obviously don't plug the whole of every hole up, you put things in the appertures that don't quite create a complete seal, this means that a tiny amount of air seaps in throught the surface of the soil into one of the tiny holes allowing water to seep out of one of the other holes. However, the wick method described earlier by Trevor sounds better, if your not on a hosepipe ban, B&Q sell a cheap auto water valve timer which connects to outside tap and then to micro pipes you could do a greenhouse for about twenty five quid, but you might not have a tap nearby.
Even if you get the dripbottles to work, they won't water anything for more than a day or two anyhow - three at the most.
Yours compotastically
Posted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 2:48 pm
by Allan
Maybe it's worth having some sort of porous plug in the bottle mouth. the trouble about a single hole is it might get blocked with soil and nothing at all come out. Maybe a bit of capillary matting in the neck would work.
I got a pack of 20 inline drips and yards of tubing for under £ 4 from a local discount (Jaymart). The etceteras promised on the label weren't inside, maybe that's why it was so cheap.
Allan
Posted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 10:18 pm
by Compo
Allan the tops in question have multiple holes, thats why some of em need blocking up, I wonder if you have seen the product in question?
Posted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 11:51 pm
by Johnboy
Hi Jerry and Compo,
My posting was directed to Brenjohn who was going to use 4 Litre milk bottles. I assumed that you filled the cannister put the lid on with a hole in it and turned it upside down to allow the water to drip out you can then get into difficulties with a vacuum.
I was only referring to milk containers and no specific cannister designed to do the job.
Does this clarify it for both of you,
Water bottle spikes
Posted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 10:09 am
by ken
My view on the plastic spikes that fit into old plastic bottles is that they are more for taking the water well below ground, to avoid evaporation loss, than for slow release. That's certainly how I've used them with courgette and squash plants. For a selection of slow release water systems for greenhouses, ranging from cheap to expensive, try Two Wests & Elliott.