Kitchen Garden Forum

Ah, I found this link if you both like to know what mycelium you are adding,
endorsed by the RHS, after trials

http://www.friendlyfungi.co.uk/rootgrow_information.php

I like a little mystery myself, as I make my own compost like you Johnboy, and use it in my tubs, little funghi are even popping up in the tubs now !
I will have to get a book to identify them

Hi NB,

How far does a 360g packet go when used for veg? The website doesn't seem to give much detail for veg growing.

Hi PJ

All the information seems to relate to planting individual plants, so I assume that it is not practical, or economic, for use over an area of a vegetable plot.

http://www.friendlyfungi.co.uk/rootgrow_how_use.php

Hi Parsons Jack, I think it would go quite a long way, because when planting stuff out only a small amount is needed under the roots, it comes in a gel for bare rooted plants or granules for under the roots of transplants in pots.
Hi Alan, the whole point is that you are innoculating the roots of plants, not just treating the soil, it's a living relationship. Having said that, for instance if you want to innoculate a fruit tree that is already in the ground you can plant some other innoculated plants within the trees rootzone and the mycelium will migrate out from the plants used, to the living growing tree.

PS ,I just found this link it gives quantities if you scroll down, 2ml to 5ml for veg, it also gives quantities for trees etc

Nature's Babe wrote:Hi Alan, the whole point is that you are innoculating the roots of plants, not just treating the soil, it's a living relationship.

I can understand the usefulness of this for permanent plantings. However, wouldn't it be a needless waste on annual vegetables? Once the plant is removed the symbiotic relationship is at an end. If soil is in good order for annual vegetables why add anything else? My climbing beans and squashes are going wild on a diet of chicken/duck-based compost and copious Welsh water (=constant rain). I don't want them to go any wilder!

Ah Alan , you are in wales and have no shortage of water, I am in the south east, and though it has been the wettest july for the rest of the country, we have had very long periods of drought, and when it has rained it hasn't been enough - except today at last we have had a good downpour, if fairly brief ! We have to conserve what water we have. The fine mycelium roots gives the vegetables roots access to a much greater area and depth from which to absorb water, but the benefit isn't just greater access to water, the mycelium also move nutrients around so the plants also get the benefits of reaping less accessible nutrients from a much wider area, particularly those needed for growth flowering and fruiting, in return the mycelium get nutrients they can't synthesise from the sun Also mycelium play an important role in soil structure and humus formation. Some are bio control agents. Chicken and duck manure are a good source of nitrogen and phosphorus, but plants need other nutrients too and balance is important, I also use chicken and duck manure but am careful not to overdo it in any one area.

All the uses I've seen on TV have been for permanent planting of trees and shrubs, and have stressed the need for direct contact with roots.

Do the funghi or spores persist in the soil for any length of time after the plant is removed ? Does chopping it down and leaving the roots in place (as you might with broad beans to allow the root nodules to go on releasing their nitrogen) help ?

Tony, an excellent question, yes it helps to just cut the plant, eg a lettuce, and leave roots in the soil, these will rot down over winter, leaving nutrients, and open channels so water can penetrate the soil more easily. The mycelium will move the nutrients about to where they are needed. I also leave spent crops eg pea vines / haulms, as a mulch works fine if there is no disease. As long as you keep some plants in the soil mycelium migrate from plant to plant, eg when the tomatoes are finnished broad beans can go in for the winter. Brassicas though apparently don't have this symbiotic relationship.
Yes spores do persist in the soil for a long time, apparently in the you tube video Greening the Desert, when stuff started to grow one of the first surprises was fungi popping up, and fungi were the gateway species that made all of the diverse life on earth possible. i think about 95% of plants do have this symbiotic relationship, its not just trees.

Parsons Jack, I just realised I missed out the link on how to use / quantities that you asked for, guidelines are here -

http://www.friendlyfungi.co.uk/rootgrow_how_use.php

this link also has a list of the few plants that don't form the symbiotic link

http://www.eastofedenplants.co.uk/rootgrow.htm