Page 2 of 2

Posted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 5:52 pm
by Jenny Green
Just seconding what's already been said, but I would suggest if there are roots growing out of the bottom and along the shelf, that you harden them off and plant them out as soon as possible. If you leave it much longer the growth of the plants will be checked and they won't grow as well or give you as good a yield. Also, you're going to find it difficult to free the plants from the modules without tearing off the roots, which will also check their growth (if not kill them).

Options for Peas

Posted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 7:52 pm
by Garlic_Guy
I have grown peas for the first time this year.

Those I planted directly into the soil (along with Broad Beans) 5 weeks ago have shown absolutely no sign of life (ok, I know it's been cold).

I started some others on damp tissue paper and transplanted them when they had shoots & roots. They are huddled under a small plastic cloche but slowly thinking about growing.

The final set were planted in Roottrainers. They developed really fast and I transplanted them this week, with around 4 inches of leafy stem and the "pot end" packed with good roots.

After all that, they've had to contend with gale force winds since then, doing a passable impression of the blades on a Wind Farm!

I'll let you know how they're all doing in a month's time,


Colin

Posted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 8:25 pm
by pigletwillie
I have loads of pea seeds ready to roll, plenty of guttering but no greenhouse space free for them.

Will they be ok in my frost free workshop until germination and then put outside until ready to plant?

Posted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 9:06 pm
by Guest
Yes, if they're round seeded rather than wrinkled. These are very hardy.

Posted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 9:54 pm
by Tigger
I hope so Piglet 'cos that's what I've got too.

Peas

Posted: Sat Apr 01, 2006 5:17 am
by Johnboy
Hi Piglet,
I can see no reason why you cannot do as you suggest even with wrinkled seed at this time of the year.
Years ago I used to get the same problem as you are having with room and I built a rack about 6ft high and fitted it out with gutter brackets and they stacked up and it held enough for a 30ft row. It stood on four wheels and when it was in my way it got put outside. Lets face it the main reason for growing with this method is to prevent the mice having a field day with the Peas even the wrinkled varieties are quite hardy and the hardier you can grow them the better.
There is no reason why Peas should not be sown outside now so I do not forsee any problems.
Lets hope that you do not have a mouse population in you shed!!

Posted: Sat Apr 01, 2006 5:31 am
by Allan
If I had to choose one variety I and it had to be early-ish I would grow Gradus, it's second early, tall so it needs a structure but it gives you continuity of cropping which is heavy and freezes well. The alternative maincrop is Alderman.
Allan

Peas

Posted: Sun Apr 02, 2006 11:19 pm
by Brenjon
Thank you Jenny. I will harden them off and then plant them out as soon as possible.

Peas

Posted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 10:29 pm
by Brenjon
Hi Johnboy

Thank you for your valued information that you posted about using 7 cm pots for your peas.
When planting out do you plant out the whole contents of your pots in rows or do you seperate each pea seedling and plant them that way in the rows.
I would imagine spliting the pots up and planting them individually would cause the check in growth that you mentioned. I am new to this and the domino
style of planting you mentioned confuses me. Perhaps you could explain. Thank you.
Regards Brenjon