Kitchen Garden Forum

Tony Hague wrote:I find this discussion slightly surprising. We are talking about cordon tomatoes here are we ? I have a greenhouse of similar size, and fit in ten plants on one side. I use a ring culture method, with the plants maybe 14" apart, in two slightly staggered rows. I guess this is the upper limit, but I haven't had fungal problems except for botrytis late in the year, which is pretty common I guess. I do have an auto vent, and have a hook to hold the door ajar in hot weather. The advice of 10 degrees minimum for tomatoes seems pretty unanimous. One more thing - I used a sulphur candle one year, never again. Sets all metal parts and fittings corroding, including the vent opener !

Thank you so much for that note of caution re sulphur candles! I was considering going that far, but won't now. To be honest I've been growing tomatoes for 40 years, and it hasn't been until this last two years that I've had a problem, leading me to the conclusion that it lingered over the winter. Do you ring culture into greenhouse soil or into grow bags? I'm not sure how I would fit 10 into an 8x2 space, it's like a jungle mid summer with only 6 plants, but staggering is definitely an option. I do have 2 auto vents, a ground level louvre and a roof one, but being auto they close overnight. I might try propping them open overnight when the 10 degrees is met.

Have you tried jeyesfluid

I'm with robo on this one, always used Jayes in the past and so did my Dad, never had any problems.

I've used it this last week it's the first time in over 45 years of growing tomatoes I've had to try and kill tomato blight off I've never suffered with it in till last summer

Blight is another problem though, that's airborne and if you leave the door open, you might just be letting in more than fresh air.

robo wrote:Have you tried jeyesfluid

Whilst J's is recommended, the last time I used it, it semi melted the plastic glazing strips on the g/h, so I'm reluctant to go down that route. The g/h is 35 years old and spares could be difficult to source. Hence my exploration of alternatives.

Years ago Kitchen Garden ran an article about an Italian gentleman who had an allotment in the London area. He was intent on growing Italian vegitables, including tomatoes, which he grew most successfuly under a polly roof held up by poles and no sides at all.

I grow my tomatoes in a pollytunnel which has mesh sides, (builders debris netting) to a height of 2'6". The doors at each end have this mesh at the top and a larger mess at the bottom (to keep birds etc. out) and to allow insects to have access.

Good spacing and ventilation is essential.

Gerry wrote:Years ago Kitchen Garden ran an article about an Italian gentleman who had an allotment in the London area. He was intent on growing Italian vegitables, including tomatoes, which he grew most successfuly under a polly roof held up by poles and no sides at all.

I grow my tomatoes in a pollytunnel which has mesh sides, (builders debris netting) to a height of 2'6". The doors at each end have this mesh at the top and a larger mess at the bottom (to keep birds etc. out) and to allow insects to have access.

Good spacing and ventilation is essential.

Agreed, now I have to convince hubby I should have a polytunnel , spacing out would be so much easier duh not going to win that one , so I will soldier on. I have lots of advice to follow and keep fingers crossed I win the battle.

Tony, I think you would not be able to buy sulphur candles. I used them for years, every winter, which cause no problem our wooden greenhouse, but the modern greenhouse fumigator candles don't seem to be nearly as 'vicious' (and probably much better for the environment!!!).

jayjaybee wrote:Do you ring culture into greenhouse soil or into grow bags? I'm not sure how I would fit 10 into an 8x2 space, it's like a jungle mid summer with only 6 plants, but staggering is definitely an option.

My rings (12" pots with the bottom cut out) sit on a bed of sand. My botanist friend tells me that the feeding roots of tomatoes are near the surface, and the deep ones are for seeking out water, which stands to reason, so I don't see that compost is needed down there. but it does make watering them easier.

My greenhouse is the other way round to yours I think. It is 8' wide and 6' long (it has a shed tacked on the end). So the bed is more like 6' x 3'', the extra depth of the bed allows me to fit in the double row. It can get a bit jungle like, but I don't feed / water as much as some. My dad has much lusher plants than mine, but I think my way produces tastier tomatoes. I wouldn't dare tell him that though

I agree with Monika's idea that the greenhouse should be controlled by ventilation and temperature in order to benefit the growth of the plant.