Swedes
Moderators: KG Steve, Chantal, Tigger, peter
I have started them on pots just because I had no ground spare for a seed row and they were Ok, but like all root crops you need to plant them out sharpish. If the tap root starts circling round the bottom of the pot, you get twisty turny swedes. I got a couple but they tasted OK. If you've got root trainers or other deep pots, that would be best.
I think there was a swede article not too far back in the mag, so you could ask Mr Potato Head which one and get a back issue.
Sue
I think there was a swede article not too far back in the mag, so you could ask Mr Potato Head which one and get a back issue.
Sue
Hello Helen
I have started swedes off in modules for several years now and it has always worked well. I put 2-3 seeds per module and thin to one seedling as soon as they emerge. I grow them on until they are about 1in high with a few pairs of immature leaves then plant out at the usual spacing. As swedes don't have a tap type of root like carrots and parsnips there isn't a problem with deformed roots as they grow on.
I sow them late - in May/June time - and this still gives them plenty of time to grow on and form good medium sized roots. I don't see any point in sowing early as I think they really are a proper winter veg and you'll just finish up with very large roots that are difficult to deal with in the kitchen.
Another point - I've tried a number different varieties and found that there's little to choose between them except colouring. Also remember that they are in the cabbage family and suffer to some extent from the same pests and diseases.
John
PS If you like root veg, beetroot can be grown in the same way but you'll need to make several sowings through the season to get a succession of young beets.
I have started swedes off in modules for several years now and it has always worked well. I put 2-3 seeds per module and thin to one seedling as soon as they emerge. I grow them on until they are about 1in high with a few pairs of immature leaves then plant out at the usual spacing. As swedes don't have a tap type of root like carrots and parsnips there isn't a problem with deformed roots as they grow on.
I sow them late - in May/June time - and this still gives them plenty of time to grow on and form good medium sized roots. I don't see any point in sowing early as I think they really are a proper winter veg and you'll just finish up with very large roots that are difficult to deal with in the kitchen.
Another point - I've tried a number different varieties and found that there's little to choose between them except colouring. Also remember that they are in the cabbage family and suffer to some extent from the same pests and diseases.
John
PS If you like root veg, beetroot can be grown in the same way but you'll need to make several sowings through the season to get a succession of young beets.
just one question! I have two raised veggy beds & just wondered if I could plant them closer together then gradually thin them once the "thinnings" are of a useable size?
Hello Helen
A good idea but I don't think it would work with swedes. They're not like carrots and beetroot with their delicate flavour at the baby stage. They need to get to a reasonable size to be of any use. If you are sowing them later for winter use they will only get up to the size of a large grapefruit, so I suppose you could set them a bit closer than the books say.
I did once try growing them closer and had trouble with mildew on the leaves but this might have been the wet season or the variety.
John
A good idea but I don't think it would work with swedes. They're not like carrots and beetroot with their delicate flavour at the baby stage. They need to get to a reasonable size to be of any use. If you are sowing them later for winter use they will only get up to the size of a large grapefruit, so I suppose you could set them a bit closer than the books say.
I did once try growing them closer and had trouble with mildew on the leaves but this might have been the wet season or the variety.
John