Wireworms and potatoes - the age old problem

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Diva
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Howdy

Last year I finally got around to renting an allotment (after thinking about it for a few years!! :) )

The plot I took over hadn't been cultivated for around 6 years so was full of nettles and couch grass. However, last year I managed to clear a couple of small beds and planted, amongst other things, a few potatoes. Unfortunatley they were eaten by wireworms :( .

Firstly, can I still eat the potatoes if they are damaged by wireworms (they weren't entirely eaten away just full of a few holes but finding half a worm sticking out when digging them up kind of put me off!!) and secondly, how can I stop them from doing it this year? I've managed to rotovate the rest of the plot and pull out the weeds and grass etc. I've also been told that there are no pesticides I can use on them, although I do have a friendly Robin who comes to visit when I'm digging and he/she mangages to eat some.

Is there anything else I can do as it's nearly potato planting time again! :D
sandersj89
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Wireworm are common in unworked ground and under grass where they feed on the roots. Cultivation will make them go away but it takes a couple of seasons.

There is talk of a natural control, http://www.greengardener.co.uk/extras.htm , but I have not had to try it.

There are chemicals available as well but don’t think they are licensed for domestic use.

Jerry
Farmers son looking to get back to the land full time one day.....

Holiday in Devon? Come stay with us: http://www.crablakefarm.co.uk/
bigpepperplant
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Someone recommended to me throwing down a handful of wheat and, when it grows and forms a head, digging it up. Apparently the wireworms are attracted to it and crowd around the root. I guess you could sow rows of wheat inbetween the potatoes in the hope that the worms will go for the wheat, not the spuds. Haven't tried it though...
fen not fen
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similar to the wheat - sow mustard a few weeks before you are to plant the spuds. It apparently smells like a food plant, and stimulates the eggs to hatch, but they can't feed on it so die, leaving the spuds clear...I'm going to try it this year.

PS it is perfectly safe to eat round the damage, I've been doing it for years
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Johnboy
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Hi Fen,
I have just read your posting and the advice I have been lead to beleive with Mustard is that young Wireworms cannot resist it and gorge themselves and burst. So which is it to be??
Me thinks a case of suck it and see!!
Strange two completely opposite points of view.
I hastern to add that I haven't the foggiest idea which is correct. I just made me giggle!!
My property has been tilled almost constantly for 200 years but I still get the odd Wireworm but not enough to take action to get rid of them.
Do remember that Mustard is a Brassica and should be phased into the plant rotation scheme.
JB.
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sue-the-recycler
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I know not everyone has them but I have found that alowing chickens to range on the soil for a few weeks is fabby for clearing these pests - and turn them into a rather good fertilizer :D
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Tangent
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Thought these might help:

http://www.syngenta-crop.co.uk/NR/exeres/5D749023-FE95-4C85-9A85-987D4D63E7A8,frameless.htm

http://www.dgsgardening.btinternet.co.uk/wireworm.htm

http://www.organic.aber.ac.uk/library/wireworm%20control%20and%20brassica%20green%20manures.pdf

HDRA Factsheet (available online to members only):
Wireworm
Often troublesome in newly cultivated ground, wireworms are the larvae of various species of click beetle. The two most common are the garden click beetle, Athous haemorrhoidalis and the common click beetle, Agriotes lineatus. Wireworms attack the underground parts of plants, damaging roots, tubers, corms and stems. Favourites are potato, beetroot and carrot as well as corms and tubers of anemone, dahlia, and gladioli. Damage to roots of strawberries, brassicas, beans, tomatoes and many seeds and seedlings can occur where infestations of wireworm are high.

Typical Symptoms
Damage can occur all year but most damage is in spring and autumn. Damage is often most severe on newly cultivated land, but wireworm larvae may remain in the soil for many years before pupating to adults (see life cycle below).

Tubers and root crops: Small, knitting needle sized entry holes 2-3mm across are seen on the outside of the tuber or root. On cutting open, a network of tunnels may be evident, often invaded and enlarged by other pests such as slugs or woodlice. Further bacterial and fungal rots may develop making them unsuitable for storage.
Corms: Similar damage to tubers above.
Seedlings: Stems are bitten through at or below soil level.
Roots and stems: Roots may show small blackened pits where feeding has occurred; plants may suddenly wilt and die. On fleshy stemmed plants such as tomato and chrysanthemum, wireworm may tunnel into the stems and upwards into the pith. On crops such as maize, stems may be chewed and frayed just above the old seed.
Description of the pest
Wireworm larvae are tough skinned, cylindrical, golden yellow to orange brown in colour and reach up to 25mm in length when mature. Three pairs of thin small legs are located behind the head.

Life cycle
The female click beetle lays her eggs just below the soil surface from May to June, favouring grassland and weedy soil. There may be several sessions of egg laying resulting in a patchy infestation throughout the area. A month later the larvae will hatch and feed on both living and dead plant material in the soil for up to five years. The larvae move through the soil profile in response to changes in moisture and temperature. In warm soils (above 10°C) the larvae feed close to the soil surface. Hotter or much colder temperatures cause the larvae to descend deeper, seeking more favourable conditions. This is why most crop damage occurs in the late spring/early summer, and early autumn. Eventually the larvae construct pupal cells at about 20cm depth in the soil, pupate and emerge during the following summer and early autumn to mate.

Prevention and control
Cultural control: Thorough cultivation, before planting and after harvesting will help to expose the wireworm to natural predators such as birds, frogs, hedgehogs and rove beetles. Remove host grass weeds, where the beetle is known to hide.
Check compost heaps: Expose home-made compost and turf stacks to birds and other predators before use, if they are infested with wireworm.
Harvest early: To limit damage to potatoes and other root crops, lift them early if wireworm is known to be present.
Traps: In infested spots in the garden or greenhouse, place a feeding trap. Spike wire through chunks of raw potato or carrot and bury under the soil surface, approximately 10-14cm down. Best done in spring or autumn, check regularly and destroy any wireworm larvae found.

Bury a pot or net of pre-soaked grain. Wheat or corn are especially useful. Soaking the grain, a day in advance to trapping, promotes seed germination and increases the baits’ attractiveness to wireworm. Cold soils (<10°C) can be warmed up by covering with a sheet of black plastic. Dig up regularly and remove the pest.

Green manure: Growing mustard, Sinapsis alba as a winter intercrop is said to speed up the life cycle of wireworm in the soil, reducing population levels especially in new grassland.

Lois
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