Hi all
I want to start a new vegetable plot this coming season on part of my garden which is currently turfed. The plot is 30X3 feet and I want to make it a raised bed. After removing the turf can you advise me on the best way to prepare and treat the soil. Many Thanks in advance.
Starting a new plot
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peter
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Make.a.stack of the turves and allow.them to stand for a year.
When you break open the stack it will be beautiful crumbly loam, almost good enough to use as compost and certainly good enough to top up your bed..
When you break open the stack it will be beautiful crumbly loam, almost good enough to use as compost and certainly good enough to top up your bed..
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Nature's Babe
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Plan your paths and dig out the path topsoil to add depth to your beds, a layer of bark on the paths will deter weeds, keep your feet less muddy and allow drainage.
Compacted topsoil is a poor growing medium. so plan your beds a comfortable size so you can reach into the centre of each bed from the paths.
Start making compost, this will aid the water holding capacity of the soil, and provide nutrients, I just mulch it on top and the worms take it into the soil and aerate the soil for me.
If digging is not your scene google the lasagne method.
If space is limited, think of your garden as multi layered from roots and tubers, leafs and greens to canes, bushes,climbing beans and peas vines over arches and possibly trees if you have space, espaliers and tender crops on south facing walls.
Get aquainted with your garden, which are the sunny / shady spots, what are the plants needs, some things like tomatoes need sun to ripen, peas need sun to sweeten,, other plants will grow in shade or semi shade.
If your garden is only three feet wide and fences are tall shade may be a bit of a problem! Good luck with it.
Compacted topsoil is a poor growing medium. so plan your beds a comfortable size so you can reach into the centre of each bed from the paths.
Start making compost, this will aid the water holding capacity of the soil, and provide nutrients, I just mulch it on top and the worms take it into the soil and aerate the soil for me.
If digging is not your scene google the lasagne method.
If space is limited, think of your garden as multi layered from roots and tubers, leafs and greens to canes, bushes,climbing beans and peas vines over arches and possibly trees if you have space, espaliers and tender crops on south facing walls.
Get aquainted with your garden, which are the sunny / shady spots, what are the plants needs, some things like tomatoes need sun to ripen, peas need sun to sweeten,, other plants will grow in shade or semi shade.
If your garden is only three feet wide and fences are tall shade may be a bit of a problem! Good luck with it.
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Mike Vogel
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Rookie, from time to time over the previous 5 or 6 years people have asked this question and if you are clever at searching back through a forum like this you will be able to find the threads. Perhaps someone else will tell you how.
Mistakes I made:
Sinking in the sides of the raised beds. My suggestiion would be to take off the turf from where your paths will be, if you like, and then rest the wood on the new surface of the path.
Making the paths too narrow. Be generous. 2 foot minimum, I'd say, and try rounding the corners to make it easier to turn a wheelbarrow.
trying to make too many beds at once.
Suggestions:
Dig out as much as you can of perennial weeds like bindweed.
Sow with Green Manures: alalfa, clover or winter tares for nitrogen fixing, or Phacelia tanacetifolia, buckwheet and hungarian grazing rye [autumn] for bulk.
Make as much compost as you can year on year and just cover the beds with it. To stop rain leeching nutrients out of the soil, place cardboard or newspaper on top and then add the compost. Plant or sow through the compost and cardboard.
Mistakes I made:
Sinking in the sides of the raised beds. My suggestiion would be to take off the turf from where your paths will be, if you like, and then rest the wood on the new surface of the path.
Making the paths too narrow. Be generous. 2 foot minimum, I'd say, and try rounding the corners to make it easier to turn a wheelbarrow.
trying to make too many beds at once.
Suggestions:
Dig out as much as you can of perennial weeds like bindweed.
Sow with Green Manures: alalfa, clover or winter tares for nitrogen fixing, or Phacelia tanacetifolia, buckwheet and hungarian grazing rye [autumn] for bulk.
Make as much compost as you can year on year and just cover the beds with it. To stop rain leeching nutrients out of the soil, place cardboard or newspaper on top and then add the compost. Plant or sow through the compost and cardboard.
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I would just add to all the previous expert advice that a turfed area is a haven for leather jackets. Ideally after removing the turf I would have dug over in the Autumn to allow the birds to pick them off but if not possible make sure you find as many as you can before filling in, topping up etc. and planting.
Beryl.
Beryl.
Hi again
I have taken off the turf and turned the plot over. I will be putting the surrounding timber in next and I will be adding compost etc but although i've taken the turf off to below the grass roots i'm sure there will be some that get left behind and start to grow again. Is it worth laying some plastic sheeting down first or the like before the topsoil/compost goes in. Sorry if this seems very basic but i'm completely new to this. Thanks again.
I have taken off the turf and turned the plot over. I will be putting the surrounding timber in next and I will be adding compost etc but although i've taken the turf off to below the grass roots i'm sure there will be some that get left behind and start to grow again. Is it worth laying some plastic sheeting down first or the like before the topsoil/compost goes in. Sorry if this seems very basic but i'm completely new to this. Thanks again.
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peter
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If it was lawn and you took an inch of soil with the grass plants it will be fine, provided you dig over the base of each bed before starting to fill it and take out any obvious weed roots. Even better if you add some manure/well-rotted compost/shredded bark as you dig the base.
No need for plastic at all.
No need for plastic at all.
Do not put off thanking people when they have helped you, as they may not be there to thank later.
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richardwil
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I would think of building a good soil mix.
The one in my raised beds was a third topsoil, a third peat (saved from the greenhouse pots) and a third coir. The topsoil was bought in and the coir was bought as compressed dry blocks which needed rewetting. The brand name was "Neopeat" and was about £3.95 for a block.
I then added as much home made compost as I had which had been put through a rotosieve, chicken manure pellets and fish, blood and bone meal to add some nutrients.
As I had access to some well rotted manure I dug this into the soil where the lawn had been but it was only about 4 bags which I liberated from my dads allotment. Don't make the mistake of letting people give you topsoil. I did, and imported weed seeds from my dads allotment which do not grow in my garden and they only appeared on the bit where I put his topsoil.
The turves have been rotted down and when replanting every spring I add a measure of sieved soil, a measure of reused peat and a measure of home made compost with a measured amount of chicken pellets and fish, blood and bone meal in each planting block to keep the fertility there.
This soil mix is so easy to work that it does not need any digging. I just stir it up with my fingers it is so light and fluffy (if that makes sense). I wear gloves when doing this though as cats like the soil mix as well and you can guess what for and it isn't growing veg. I now have frames with mesh covers for most of the raised beds to deter the cats.
Good luck and trust to your own judgement. Like other people get making your own compost, as much as you can as this is one of the best additives for your soil.
Cheers
Richard
The one in my raised beds was a third topsoil, a third peat (saved from the greenhouse pots) and a third coir. The topsoil was bought in and the coir was bought as compressed dry blocks which needed rewetting. The brand name was "Neopeat" and was about £3.95 for a block.
I then added as much home made compost as I had which had been put through a rotosieve, chicken manure pellets and fish, blood and bone meal to add some nutrients.
As I had access to some well rotted manure I dug this into the soil where the lawn had been but it was only about 4 bags which I liberated from my dads allotment. Don't make the mistake of letting people give you topsoil. I did, and imported weed seeds from my dads allotment which do not grow in my garden and they only appeared on the bit where I put his topsoil.
The turves have been rotted down and when replanting every spring I add a measure of sieved soil, a measure of reused peat and a measure of home made compost with a measured amount of chicken pellets and fish, blood and bone meal in each planting block to keep the fertility there.
This soil mix is so easy to work that it does not need any digging. I just stir it up with my fingers it is so light and fluffy (if that makes sense). I wear gloves when doing this though as cats like the soil mix as well and you can guess what for and it isn't growing veg. I now have frames with mesh covers for most of the raised beds to deter the cats.
Good luck and trust to your own judgement. Like other people get making your own compost, as much as you can as this is one of the best additives for your soil.
Cheers
Richard