Testing my soil

[Jrp]

I remember reading instructions in Kitchen Garden for testing soil type. I can't find the article now. Can anyone tell me where to find it? Or give me the instructions again?
I am guessing that my soil would be mostly silt, as it seems to have rather fine texture and to retain water for quite a long time. It has pH about 6.5. But then when it drains and dries it packs hard and solid, but doesn't seem to be clay-like. I have to be extra careful not to compress it by walking on it when wet.There are a lot of stones, all sizes from gravel up to small rounded boulders. When I've taken out the bigger stones and added manure it seems to be pretty fertile and all my veg. grow well (if the weather gives us a chance)!
I really want to know what this soil is and how to improve it.

[oldherbaceous]

Evening Jrp, i'm afraid i can't help you find the instructions in the magazine.

But your soil does sound to be of silt, this sits half way between sand and clay which is not a bad thing.
To improve the struture just add loads of bulky organic material, either homemade compost or well rotted manure. But it does take a few years to see a real improvement.
For a quicker fix, you can add a coarse sand like concreting sand, but not builders sand as this is to fine. This does work out expensive though if you are doing a large area.

[Nature's Babe]

Hi JRP, I would do it the easy way, with this method you can improve any soil

Start by marking the boundaries of the garden bed you are installing. Use stakes and string, or outline it with a hose.restrict beds to a size that you can reach into the middle, compaction is then avoided if you keep off the beds. If your topsoil is shallow you can use the path topsoil to raise the beds before mulching, this will help drainage in wet periods. Autumn is a good time to do this, and soil will be in better shape by spring. Step back to examine the size and shape, then Just be sure to check the shape of the final garden and adjust it if you need to.

If there are tall weeds or grass on your site, set your mower to as low a setting as possible and cut them down.
Smothering Weeds
The goal is to spread a thick layer of newspapers topped by a thick layer of compost / mulch. The best way to accomplish this is to spread the newspaper in sections using scoops of mulch to keep the newspaper from blowing away. A layer of newspaper 8 to 10 sheets thick will eliminate lawn grass and most weeds. Use a thicker layer if you have especially vigorous weeds on the site. You can also use cardboard, but that will take longer to rot, making the interval between mulching and planting longer. Use only the sections printed on uncoated (not shiny) traditional newsprint. restrict beds to a size that you can reach into the middle, compaction is then avoided if you keep off the beds. If your topsoil is shallow you can use the path topsoil to raise the beds before mulching, this will help drainage in wet periods. Autumn is a good time to do this, and soil will be in better shape by spring. You can grow a crop to lay as a mulch or if you keep chickens use their old bedstraw, overwintered it won't be too strong by spring, the worms will work the patch under the mulch and dig more efficiently than we do, by spring there will be a good tilth.

[snooky]

Evening Jrp,the link below has been poached from another site and will lead to the Vital Earth website which may give you an answer;and a free soil testing Ph kit


Soil Advice | Types Of Soil | Free Soil Testing Kit

No it will not,got it wrong somehow.

Try this-http://vitalearth.tv/sendsoiladvice.php#loam

[Sandyback]

What is the opinion on the different PH testing kits, are stick it in the ground gauge things very good, I assume it doesn't need to be spot on but at least within reasonable parameters.
Thanks

[Geoff]

It will be interesting to see what people think.
I have never got on very well with testing based on colour changes, they never seem as distinct as the charts suggest.
The cheap "stick it in" testers seem to get a bad press, don't know if you get more accuracy for more money.
When I was working we had labs with properly calibrated pH meters and bottles of distilled water so I used to take samples in, shake them up with distilled water then test. Trouble is I've been retired for almost 7 years so my testing has lapsed somewhat. I think this is the best way to do it so if you are serious perhaps search for a decent pH meter.

PS: your grounds look a bit steep for veg growing or have you dug up the courtyard?

[Santa_stunt_double]

I've used a couple of the low cost 'stick in the ground' type meters.

They are very good at showing light levels.

They are consistent in pH reading - everything is 6.

And they can tell the difference between dry soil and a bucket of water. Usually.

Bought a cheap chemical tester from the local garden centre that uses capsules of test chemicals for pH, N, P and K. I think about £7 for 2 tests of each with test tubes, & extra 10 test capsules at £2.50. Homebase online has something similar.

Main plot after manuring - pH 8, Blueberry bed with lots of ericaceous compost, between 6 and 6.5 - quite a colour contrast on the chart.

Only issue is that the small tubes are difficult to clean, and obviously it's an ongoing cost rather than a one-off cost. Maybe there's a better test meter out there, but I wouldn't recommend the ones I've tried.

[Sandyback]

Thanks for the response, I think I'll maybe go down the test tube route, It shouldn't be that often that I would need to test.

Geoff, I left my home town in the early 80's, it wasn't so much the digging up the patio that was the problem as carrying the water uphill