Watercress (revised Oct.2007)
Posted: Sun Dec 10, 2006 4:36 am
Here is an extract fom Sutton's Seeds online re. watercress which illustrates very well the need for 'Technical Data'
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A delightful salad plant either by itself or tossed with other salad ingredients and delicious with cheese sandwiches or with a cheese dip - it even makes superb cold soups. The dark green peppery flavoured leaves are rich in vitamins and minerals including vitamin C and iron. Although usually grown commercially in water it can be grown in the garden soil provided it is given plenty of water and will crop from early summer till around Christmas if protected with cloches etc. You can also grow it in a container stood in a saucer of water.
Sowing Instructions
Sow in mid spring when the soil has warmed up in very shallow drills spread 7.5cm (3in) apart, and cover with a light covering of soil. As regular watering is necessary you may wish to have your drill at the bottom of a small trench approximately 8-10cm (3-4in) deep for easier watering.
To grow in a container, plant 3-4 to a 30cm (12in) tub or pot and stand in a container with about 2-3in of water, in the shade. Keep the water constantly topped up to this level.
You may ask what's wrong with that. Here is my answer
1. If you sow in spring it will grow but by July it will all go to seed as programmed into the plant
2. With the abundance of summer vegetables you don't really need to grow watercress for the summer.
3. On the other hand watercress can be available under cover for most of the winter when its high vitamin and mineral content is invaluable in maintaining health through the difficult winter days.
Subject: Grow your own watercress
First posted 30/11/02
Edited Jan. 2007
One of the most nutritious salad crops is watercress. It has been eaten
for many centuries by man, originally from natural crops but it became
convenient to manage the crop in prepared beds. There is a hazard in that
if there is drainage into the water source from stagnant water it is
possible to get infection from the liver fluke
However it is not difficult to get good results from beds in soil or other
growing medium provided that you never let it get too dry, and under such
a regime there can be no possibility of liver fluke infection.
Seed can be obtained from many seedsmen or you can save your own seed, it will keep for several years.and in August or September it is
sown shallowly on seed compost then lightly stirred into the surface.As the seeds are tiny take care not to sow too thickly. As soon as the seedlings are big enough to handle easily
single plants are selected or potted up and grown on. A similar result can be obtained
from sprigs of bought watercress potted up, it is not necessary to pre-root these in water.
This gives quicker results than from seed.
Once the watercress is established it is useful to start the next batch of plants.Three beds about a month apart can thus be established.
When the plants are big enough plant out in rows at about 9 inches to a foot apart with enough space between rows to permit access when the plants
are spreading. something like 2 ft. apart. It is also possible to plant in containers in which case you will not need the access space. I have used
large polystyrene fishboxes usually obtainable from fishmongers or chippies for the asking. As long as the ground is reasonably fertile further feed is not usually required, a little balanced feed might be
useful.
Gather the shoots as required, preferably selectively or cut across everything
leaving sufficient on the ground to re-grow.You should get 3 or 4 cuttings
before growth gets too small and crowded, but before this point is reached
select some rooted cuttings to establish the next bed so that it is ready
to take over. Better results are given by rooting the cuttings in small pots of multipurpose
compost and kept permanently moist in a waterproof tray.
Eventually in late spring the plants will flower and seed and you can keep a number of plants to yield seed for the next season's sowing.
Question:- will it grow in shade?
Reply:-
I don't see why it shouldn't grow in the shade but like all living plants
that depend on photosynthesis there is going to be a cost to restricting
the light supply in terms of slower growth and it might also affect the
colour. On the other hand the place where I got my starting watercress
from was a stream in a wood and it was doing quite well there. You might
like to experiment with reflective panels covered with aluminium foil to
redirect extra light onto the leaves but don't expect miracles.
Question:-
I have never tried growing watercress as I thought it needed to grow in
running water but I have grown landcress in trays and it looks and tastes
very similar to watercress.
Reply:-
I find land cress relatively tough and it tends to either just sit or go
to seed. You should find watercress easier to manage as long as you follow
the 2 rules of keep it wet enough and keep up sequential plantings.
______________________________________________
A delightful salad plant either by itself or tossed with other salad ingredients and delicious with cheese sandwiches or with a cheese dip - it even makes superb cold soups. The dark green peppery flavoured leaves are rich in vitamins and minerals including vitamin C and iron. Although usually grown commercially in water it can be grown in the garden soil provided it is given plenty of water and will crop from early summer till around Christmas if protected with cloches etc. You can also grow it in a container stood in a saucer of water.
Sowing Instructions
Sow in mid spring when the soil has warmed up in very shallow drills spread 7.5cm (3in) apart, and cover with a light covering of soil. As regular watering is necessary you may wish to have your drill at the bottom of a small trench approximately 8-10cm (3-4in) deep for easier watering.
To grow in a container, plant 3-4 to a 30cm (12in) tub or pot and stand in a container with about 2-3in of water, in the shade. Keep the water constantly topped up to this level.
You may ask what's wrong with that. Here is my answer
1. If you sow in spring it will grow but by July it will all go to seed as programmed into the plant
2. With the abundance of summer vegetables you don't really need to grow watercress for the summer.
3. On the other hand watercress can be available under cover for most of the winter when its high vitamin and mineral content is invaluable in maintaining health through the difficult winter days.
Subject: Grow your own watercress
First posted 30/11/02
Edited Jan. 2007
One of the most nutritious salad crops is watercress. It has been eaten
for many centuries by man, originally from natural crops but it became
convenient to manage the crop in prepared beds. There is a hazard in that
if there is drainage into the water source from stagnant water it is
possible to get infection from the liver fluke
However it is not difficult to get good results from beds in soil or other
growing medium provided that you never let it get too dry, and under such
a regime there can be no possibility of liver fluke infection.
Seed can be obtained from many seedsmen or you can save your own seed, it will keep for several years.and in August or September it is
sown shallowly on seed compost then lightly stirred into the surface.As the seeds are tiny take care not to sow too thickly. As soon as the seedlings are big enough to handle easily
single plants are selected or potted up and grown on. A similar result can be obtained
from sprigs of bought watercress potted up, it is not necessary to pre-root these in water.
This gives quicker results than from seed.
Once the watercress is established it is useful to start the next batch of plants.Three beds about a month apart can thus be established.
When the plants are big enough plant out in rows at about 9 inches to a foot apart with enough space between rows to permit access when the plants
are spreading. something like 2 ft. apart. It is also possible to plant in containers in which case you will not need the access space. I have used
large polystyrene fishboxes usually obtainable from fishmongers or chippies for the asking. As long as the ground is reasonably fertile further feed is not usually required, a little balanced feed might be
useful.
Gather the shoots as required, preferably selectively or cut across everything
leaving sufficient on the ground to re-grow.You should get 3 or 4 cuttings
before growth gets too small and crowded, but before this point is reached
select some rooted cuttings to establish the next bed so that it is ready
to take over. Better results are given by rooting the cuttings in small pots of multipurpose
compost and kept permanently moist in a waterproof tray.
Eventually in late spring the plants will flower and seed and you can keep a number of plants to yield seed for the next season's sowing.
Question:- will it grow in shade?
Reply:-
I don't see why it shouldn't grow in the shade but like all living plants
that depend on photosynthesis there is going to be a cost to restricting
the light supply in terms of slower growth and it might also affect the
colour. On the other hand the place where I got my starting watercress
from was a stream in a wood and it was doing quite well there. You might
like to experiment with reflective panels covered with aluminium foil to
redirect extra light onto the leaves but don't expect miracles.
Question:-
I have never tried growing watercress as I thought it needed to grow in
running water but I have grown landcress in trays and it looks and tastes
very similar to watercress.
Reply:-
I find land cress relatively tough and it tends to either just sit or go
to seed. You should find watercress easier to manage as long as you follow
the 2 rules of keep it wet enough and keep up sequential plantings.