Good Morning All,
I have been reading your posts for a while now waiting until I had my own veg patch and garden. The moment has finally arrived and my Husband and I moved into our own house two weeks ago (after living in America for several years) with space for growing. I am very excited and plan on growing as much as we can. I would love a polytunnel to extend our season. I know I have missed the early season for 2009 but I would like to grow late into the season this year. There are several different companies suppling tunnels and I do not know where start. I have a few questions and would be very grateful for your help:
1: Good experiences with any companies
2: What do you look for when buying a polytunnel
3: How easy are they to build
4: What features would your ideal poly tunnel have
5: What is the optimum size width, length, height
6: Anything else you can add!
I look forward to reading your replies
Thanks very much
Rozy
Polytunnel Advise
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- oldherbaceous
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Dear Rozy, i,m afraid i have no advice on the polytunnel front, as i have a large greenhouse. But i'm sure the others will be along soon to help.
But i would like to wish you both a very warm welcome to the forum.
But i would like to wish you both a very warm welcome to the forum.
Kind Regards, Old Herbaceous.
There's no fool like an old fool.
There's no fool like an old fool.
ours came from south west tunnels a few years ago , they were only 5 miles away and priced right, but dont think they exist anymore.
we have 2, both 14 by 30, it was infact bought as a 14 by 65 cos that was the cheapest per square foot . any wider or longer and the frame tubing got a bigger diameter which pushed the price up.
the 14 foot span gives a central bed for tall crops, 2 paths and 2 beds allong the walls. im 6 foot and can easily reach the ridge tube to tie things to it, a bigger width would mean the roof would be too high to reach
assembling the frame is easy, its not to critical to get it all level , but it looks better if the ridgeline is straight .
a warm still day is best for putting the plastic on, get it as taut as possible, the tautness of the plastic is critical for ridigity of the structure and long plastic life. we used anti hotspot tape on the frame, its an insulating tape that protects the plastic from the hot metal frame.
i made stable doors for the ends.. the top can be open for ventilation , with the bottoms closed to keep the rabbits out, cats just jump over though.
once yove got on its hard to imagine being without one
we have 2, both 14 by 30, it was infact bought as a 14 by 65 cos that was the cheapest per square foot . any wider or longer and the frame tubing got a bigger diameter which pushed the price up.
the 14 foot span gives a central bed for tall crops, 2 paths and 2 beds allong the walls. im 6 foot and can easily reach the ridge tube to tie things to it, a bigger width would mean the roof would be too high to reach
assembling the frame is easy, its not to critical to get it all level , but it looks better if the ridgeline is straight .
a warm still day is best for putting the plastic on, get it as taut as possible, the tautness of the plastic is critical for ridigity of the structure and long plastic life. we used anti hotspot tape on the frame, its an insulating tape that protects the plastic from the hot metal frame.
i made stable doors for the ends.. the top can be open for ventilation , with the bottoms closed to keep the rabbits out, cats just jump over though.
once yove got on its hard to imagine being without one