Fruit cages

Polytunnels, cold frames, greenhouses, propagators & more. How to get the best out of yours...

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Colin Miles
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My Two West Fruit cage which I bought in 2005 is now beyond repair, mainly due to my forgetting to remove the netting before it snowed. But many of the tubes were bending anyway and it was basically too narrow - it was originally used as a rabbit pen!

So I need a new fruit cage. Obviously a do-it-yourself option would be the cheapest, but I don't have the time or inclination to do that, so I have been looking at the various firms to see what is on offer. My requirement is for a 6 x 3m cage due to the position, which eliminates quite a few of the firms. At present I am thinking Harrods or William James.

Any thoughts?
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Geoff
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You seem to have already discounted the best type, by Miles.
Better not describe again 3" posts, windbreak netting and chicken wire.
Colin Miles
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Hi Geoff - I assume that you mean something like the DIY option shown at the end of this comparison of fruit cages http://www.gardenfocused.co.uk/techniques/fruit-cages.php

I rather suspect that by the time I got all the necessary it might well end up just as expensive and timewise ... hmm.
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Geoff
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Yes similar to that, a lower level of tough windbreak netting and chicken netting for the rest. Lasts for ever, well nearly. Don't know if you are talking garden or allotment which makes a difference. Even if you use ordinary netting or a fruit cage kit a solid bottom edge, like the boards on your link, makes the world of difference to keeping it weeded.
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John
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Hello Colin
I've tried various fruit cages over the years from DIY, coated steel and aluminium. I've settled on the TW system which I've found very good. The tubes have only bent when someone has accidentally trodden on them! The TW cage is easy to put up and knock in the joints. Replacement joints are available from TW. I have a single huge sheet of netting which is just thrown over the top then pull out and down the sides. I run a roll of fine wire netting all around the bottom of the cage and then let the plastic overlap the wire. I don't bother with netting clips.
The biggest advantage of most of the manufactured cages is that it is easy to slide a sheet of netting on or off with DIY cages so often the netting keeps snagging on the wooden frame.
All the ready made systems are based on 2 x 2 metre squares so your 6 x 3 metre plan becomes a bit awkward.

John
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Colin Miles
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Hi John - which ones have you used and are you referring to Two West? I haven't been that impressed with mine but I supposed their heavy duty version might be better. In the comparison I listed the comment was' 'Not one that we would include in our shortlist.'
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FelixLeiter
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You could always do away with your cage altogether. I'm not convinced of a cage's merit. and wherever I've grown fruit, I've done so without a cage. Although some may have been eaten, not enough for me to notice. I've seen more fruit lost through bad pruning than due to woodland creatures: a neighbour has a cage like Fort Knox but knocks his currants back to half their height each year, removing much of the fruiting wood.
Allotment, but little achieved.
chrise
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have you tried gardening naturally website,they have ready made or buy tubes,joiners and net as seperates
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Motherwoman
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I'm with Felix on this one. My redcurrants and gooseberries fruited incredibly well, I just chucked a net over the top of the bushes once the fruit had set, pegged down in a few places but by no means secure all round. I lost a bit to birds that hopped in at the bottom but saving them would not have merited the cost of a cage. I suppose it depends on the level of damage you'd incur without it. And I'm a big softy for watching the young blackbirds... :)
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