Wolsley Webb Merry Tiller rotavator
Moderators: KG Steve, Chantal, Tigger, peter
Hello Clive, just to let you know that the manual arrived today and regards chaincase oil it states:-'' There is no oil in the case.Fill up with SAE 40 oil or equivalent until level reaches the threads of the oil filler hole. Approximately 2 pints (1.14 litres) is required''. I measured the oil into an old,clean,glass mlik bottle and would you believe it, when the last drop was dripping from the tube attached to the funnel on the second pint the oil started to seep from the oil filler hole ! Looking at the tines there is no sign of wear, no nicks or lumps missing and the paint or galvanising dip is pretty much intact ( has this machine ever seen any use other than hoeing the top couple of inches of a flower bed ). In with the manual there is a B&S operating and maintenance instructions model series 100200 to100299 & 130200 to 131299. I noticed that the links that you gave me matched my tin cowl numbers much better, just to clarify,which paperwork would you use when looking for parts,info,etc. One last question both sheets mention ''Champion CJ-8 (short plug) or J-8 (long plug) I`d like to renew the plug what would you go for I`ve parked her in the shed on some newspaper under chaincase I hope there`s no puddles in the morning Thanks for all your help. Kind regards Gary
- Clive.
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Hello Gary,
Pleased the manual gave the oil answer....so the oil fill quantity did change with the model after my mid 1970s model.. I thought it possibly may have done but not enough to type it in answer. When I first worked in the mower world it was at a hire shop, briefly, and they had a 1976-ish Major and a 1979 Major..and I did vaguely recall the screw in type cap on the later one.. Some years later working elsewhere we had a MT Spartan model from the last design series and hence I knew that was screw thread cap and the fill details better...
The parts look up info will be; http://www.briggsandstratton.com/maint_ ... 761_LO.pdf if it seems to cover your numbers correctly.??
..always though take your engine numbers in to the machinery shop when getting parts so they can double check with their info' and thus let them pick the correct current part.
The 130200 ref that came with the manual will I suspect come from the 5hp engine...operation of this will be more or less the same but there will of course be detail parts differences..
The CJ8 and J8 sparks plugs were the norm for B&S engines at the time of the manuals writing...they both had the same heat range and in cylinder dimensions. The long and short ref was to the external porcelain etc body...most in fact used CJ8.
Recently the change was to Champion J19LM or equivalent to better suit UK unleaded fuel. Again the internal dimensions are the same..but the body size half way between CJ8 and J8..with spanner fitting being of the J8.
Do check this info locally with machinery agent to get the current thinking on this...my info could be getting dated , I have been out of the machinery trade 18+ years now......
All the best,
Clive.
Pleased the manual gave the oil answer....so the oil fill quantity did change with the model after my mid 1970s model.. I thought it possibly may have done but not enough to type it in answer. When I first worked in the mower world it was at a hire shop, briefly, and they had a 1976-ish Major and a 1979 Major..and I did vaguely recall the screw in type cap on the later one.. Some years later working elsewhere we had a MT Spartan model from the last design series and hence I knew that was screw thread cap and the fill details better...
The parts look up info will be; http://www.briggsandstratton.com/maint_ ... 761_LO.pdf if it seems to cover your numbers correctly.??
..always though take your engine numbers in to the machinery shop when getting parts so they can double check with their info' and thus let them pick the correct current part.
The 130200 ref that came with the manual will I suspect come from the 5hp engine...operation of this will be more or less the same but there will of course be detail parts differences..
The CJ8 and J8 sparks plugs were the norm for B&S engines at the time of the manuals writing...they both had the same heat range and in cylinder dimensions. The long and short ref was to the external porcelain etc body...most in fact used CJ8.
Recently the change was to Champion J19LM or equivalent to better suit UK unleaded fuel. Again the internal dimensions are the same..but the body size half way between CJ8 and J8..with spanner fitting being of the J8.
Do check this info locally with machinery agent to get the current thinking on this...my info could be getting dated , I have been out of the machinery trade 18+ years now......
All the best,
Clive.
Hello Clive,Thanks for info,no seeps or leaks so all seems well ! Man at the lawnmower shop locally seems to think a NGK B2-LM is the plug I want so will give it a go,will give her a run saturday morning and will let you know what the outcome is. Thanks once again
All the best Gary
All the best Gary
Hello again Gary
In an earlier posting Clive mentioned the B&S fuel additive. I use this in fuel for my mowers and rotovator. Its very good stuff as it prevents gum deposits forming in fuel when it is left standing for some time. My MT gets used mainly in the Spring and then again in early Winter but otherwise its idle for many months with fuel still in the tank. B&S say that it improves starting. You only need 5ml per 5 litres of fuel in summer and 15ml for fuel stored over the winter so the small bottle goes a long way.
John
In an earlier posting Clive mentioned the B&S fuel additive. I use this in fuel for my mowers and rotovator. Its very good stuff as it prevents gum deposits forming in fuel when it is left standing for some time. My MT gets used mainly in the Spring and then again in early Winter but otherwise its idle for many months with fuel still in the tank. B&S say that it improves starting. You only need 5ml per 5 litres of fuel in summer and 15ml for fuel stored over the winter so the small bottle goes a long way.
John
The Gods do not subtract from the allotted span of men’s lives, the hours spent fishing Assyrian tablet
What we observe is not nature itself, but nature exposed to our method of questioning Werner Heisenberg
I am a man and the world is my urinal
What we observe is not nature itself, but nature exposed to our method of questioning Werner Heisenberg
I am a man and the world is my urinal
Hello John, thanks for info I will probably invest in a pot of the stuff when I come to park the MT up for a while,now that I have my manual and with Clive`s guidence my engine booklet and parts list I should be able to get cracking at some digging with a greater confidence than I would have otherwise felt. If you think of anything else please let me know,all info greatly appreciated.
All the best Gary
All the best Gary
- oldherbaceous
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Geoff, don't, think if it breaks down.
Kind Regards, Old Herbaceous.
There's no fool like an old fool.
There's no fool like an old fool.
OH
MTs are indestructible - they go on forever!
Get tilling Gary.
John
PS My chickens just love my MT. As soon as I start it up they come running - looking for an easy meal of worms and other goodies. So the soil is dug and cleaned in one go!
MTs are indestructible - they go on forever!
Get tilling Gary.
John
PS My chickens just love my MT. As soon as I start it up they come running - looking for an easy meal of worms and other goodies. So the soil is dug and cleaned in one go!
The Gods do not subtract from the allotted span of men’s lives, the hours spent fishing Assyrian tablet
What we observe is not nature itself, but nature exposed to our method of questioning Werner Heisenberg
I am a man and the world is my urinal
What we observe is not nature itself, but nature exposed to our method of questioning Werner Heisenberg
I am a man and the world is my urinal
Hello Clive, can I pick your brains again ? Used rotavator over the weekend and all was well, just got in from work and thought I`d clean and oil etc etc. when I started the engine the tines started to spin even though the clutch was where it is supposed to be ! I have looked in manual and tried to ajust the cable and jockey wheel but to no avail, can you suggest anything ? all the best Gary ?
- Clive.
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Hello Gary,
We were wondering how the tilling was going at the weekend.
Now this is perhaps where this medium falls down a bit.?..it is great for mulling over ages and histories of this and that etc...but there is no equivalent to actually seeing the machine to work out a snag...
It is puzzling if all was well before and the only thing that has caused the change is a day of use.??…or transport.??…or cleaning.??
Is this full drive or was it just an intial creap.?
It very much needs sorting though as any tiller prone to stick in drive is rather an unsafe beast.. and if you are unsure of how to progress a fix it may be better to seek out local professional assistance..?
I have mulled over a few thoughts though...
Could the belt have come out of location and got outside of a belt guide near engine pulley.?? The belt guides near engine pulley are vital to correct hold of belt, around, but just free of the engine pulley when not in drive...
One type of these guides is shown on the bottom of Richards belt spares page...admittedly on a different model with two belt ratios…but may give a clue. http://www.merrytiller.co.uk/spares1.htm
Has anything like a stone been flicked up and got under the jockey arm...I can't quite visualise if this would be possible? but I think your machine does have the wide flat engine plates rather than the earlier more open angle.... it has occurred on our Honda F400 before now.
A cable fault such that the arm is not dropping back freely.??
Worn belt that has become sticky rubber sided and not fabric sided..?
Wet belt.?…from a hosing down.?…we have a Dori rotary mower and all hell breaks loose if it gets any wet on the cutter belt in a hose down…it promptly tries to drive with the belt brake on…..
Do make your investigations etc with engine switched off and spark plug lead unclipped and to earth.. because belts and pullies are ready, willing and able to remove fingers. ...
Perhaps some clue to success will be if the tiller will pull back freely..hard to describe.. but if you pull the machine backwards it freely rolls without tines trying to drag ..so belt is free in large pulley...
…..and a slow pull of the recoil starter also brings no attempt to drive …belt free around engine pulley...
Again though, if you are unsure do entrust the work to a local agent.
Clive.
We were wondering how the tilling was going at the weekend.
Now this is perhaps where this medium falls down a bit.?..it is great for mulling over ages and histories of this and that etc...but there is no equivalent to actually seeing the machine to work out a snag...
It is puzzling if all was well before and the only thing that has caused the change is a day of use.??…or transport.??…or cleaning.??
Is this full drive or was it just an intial creap.?
It very much needs sorting though as any tiller prone to stick in drive is rather an unsafe beast.. and if you are unsure of how to progress a fix it may be better to seek out local professional assistance..?
I have mulled over a few thoughts though...
Could the belt have come out of location and got outside of a belt guide near engine pulley.?? The belt guides near engine pulley are vital to correct hold of belt, around, but just free of the engine pulley when not in drive...
One type of these guides is shown on the bottom of Richards belt spares page...admittedly on a different model with two belt ratios…but may give a clue. http://www.merrytiller.co.uk/spares1.htm
Has anything like a stone been flicked up and got under the jockey arm...I can't quite visualise if this would be possible? but I think your machine does have the wide flat engine plates rather than the earlier more open angle.... it has occurred on our Honda F400 before now.
A cable fault such that the arm is not dropping back freely.??
Worn belt that has become sticky rubber sided and not fabric sided..?
Wet belt.?…from a hosing down.?…we have a Dori rotary mower and all hell breaks loose if it gets any wet on the cutter belt in a hose down…it promptly tries to drive with the belt brake on…..
Do make your investigations etc with engine switched off and spark plug lead unclipped and to earth.. because belts and pullies are ready, willing and able to remove fingers. ...
Perhaps some clue to success will be if the tiller will pull back freely..hard to describe.. but if you pull the machine backwards it freely rolls without tines trying to drag ..so belt is free in large pulley...
…..and a slow pull of the recoil starter also brings no attempt to drive …belt free around engine pulley...
Again though, if you are unsure do entrust the work to a local agent.
Clive.
Hello Clive, thanks for advice and words of warning,I have noticed that this seems to happen as the engine warms up and as the engine heats up so must the engine pulley wheel I guess. I think it may be a combination of the jockey wheel sticking and the belt getting sticky as it warms up and it starts to bind and catch on the engine pulley wheel. I have removed and cleaned belt and cleaned both pulley wheels tonight, belt was very greasey.Will put back together probably thursday and see what happens ,if no luck I will get a local professional to have a look !
I wanted your opinion as when something like this happens you always seem to think the worst,as a Bricklayer I regularly have friends and acquaintance`s asking if their house is structurally doomed.
Your guess would be nothing serious hopefully,but might be better looked at by a professional.
Thanks once again Clive for answering my questions.
All the best, Gary
I wanted your opinion as when something like this happens you always seem to think the worst,as a Bricklayer I regularly have friends and acquaintance`s asking if their house is structurally doomed.
Your guess would be nothing serious hopefully,but might be better looked at by a professional.
Thanks once again Clive for answering my questions.
All the best, Gary
- Clive.
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Hello Gary,
Hopefully the clean up may help?...but I wonder if the belt is not as per original.?? or worn .?? ..also a greasy belt does not sound good.. where is it getting the oil/grease from.?
I tend to try to add some safety thoughts..and I do worry as there is just no way of knowing the expertise at the other end.....and I am a worrier anyway
I am sure I have documented it before...but with reference a lawnmower engine tune up I once wrote as a safety thought..."Whilst every attention is focussed on engine tuning it is very easy to forget the danger posed by the spinning blades"....the enquirer replied...and happened to comment that he was an Engineering Officer of the Swedish Joint Forces Helicopter Command...I suspect he was conversant with being wary of spinning blades
All the best,
Clive.
Hopefully the clean up may help?...but I wonder if the belt is not as per original.?? or worn .?? ..also a greasy belt does not sound good.. where is it getting the oil/grease from.?
I tend to try to add some safety thoughts..and I do worry as there is just no way of knowing the expertise at the other end.....and I am a worrier anyway
I am sure I have documented it before...but with reference a lawnmower engine tune up I once wrote as a safety thought..."Whilst every attention is focussed on engine tuning it is very easy to forget the danger posed by the spinning blades"....the enquirer replied...and happened to comment that he was an Engineering Officer of the Swedish Joint Forces Helicopter Command...I suspect he was conversant with being wary of spinning blades
All the best,
Clive.