Kitchen Garden Forum

I have the fabulous Hayter 10/30 which i have used for over 10 years (I bought it second hand and restored it the best I can). It picks up grass, mulches and throws it out if required.
It has worked fine for all those years bar the odd belt replacement.

This week after cutting, it suddenly would not drive after i switched it back on after
stopping briefly.
Not forward or reverse. Additionally the brake does not work ?
The engine runs fine.

The drive belt has not broken either. (I have not yet replaced it as usually when
a non drive issue happens it is the belt snapped)

In any gear engaged I can push the mower forward and back with no restraint.
With the brake on i can push the mower forward and back the same.

This was sudden ?
I have adjusted the clutch mechanism to no avail.

Any ideas ?
(Just so you know I am very familiar with mechanics and have restored
4 vintage motorcycles but this has got me ?)
Help …….

I assume it's none of these



If the drive is getting to the pulley I guess it is something to do with the transaxle / clutch but perhaps somebody better at machines will be along shortly!

Many thanks for the info. I think mine is earlier though but agree some of
the checks are needed. All those check out ok.

p.s my manual has only these steps to sort.

As on motorbikes the sequence to find the issue must be simple ? but i dont know it.
i.e brake on - nothing - any gear nothing ?
brake lever does move as does the clutch.

the one thing i have not done is replace the belt but it is not broken ?
it might be stretched ? would this cause a sudden issue ?

I have the bigger 13/30 so not familiar with this model. Can you safely check if the pulley above the transaxle is going round? If that is driving when in gear the problem is in the drive mechanism not the belt. If you lift the rear with the engine not running do the wheels engage with the gearbox? My neighbour had no drive on a 13/30 as he had taken a wheel off to sort a puncture and hadn't put the drive key back in.

Good logical advice ! thanks.
I will do that:

- safely check if the pulley above the transaxle is going round? If that is driving when in gear the problem is in the drive mechanism not the belt
- If you lift the rear with the engine not running do the wheels engage with the gearbox?

I will check immediately !

Drive key not touched - if mean that key in the wheel shaft that allows it too turn.

(I had a hayter 13/30 pre the 10/30) had both at one time. The mad thing is the 13/30 while being slightly more powerful
etc could not mulch. Such a shame on that model. The 10/30 on the same garden as it can mulch, pick up and throw out the side or back
i think is absolutely the best cheapish designed mower i know of. The power of the 10/30 is also no issue.

Test results to follow - thanks

Update on drive tests:

- is the pulley on the trans-axle going round with it in a gear and engine running - drive mode = YES
If that is driving when in gear the problem is in the drive mechanism not the belt

- With rear wheels off the ground and in gear do the wheels engage the gearbox ? = NO

So the issue is in the drive mechanism...... ?
Any pointers from anyone / (Help so much appreciated)

Original tests:
This week after cutting, it suddenly would not drive after i switched it back on after
stopping briefly.
Not forward or reverse. Additionally the brake does not work ?
The engine runs fine.

The drive belt has not broken either. (I have not yet replaced it as usually when
a non drive issue happens it is the belt snapped) Could it be stretched ?

In any gear engaged I can push the mower forward and back with no restraint.
With the brake on i can push the mower forward and back the same.

I have adjusted the clutch mechanism to no avail.

You could try telling Hayter what you have found, they'll probably say take it to a dealer but you never know.

My neighbour has a mulching attachment for his 13/30 but it is a more recent model than my 2006 version.

Agreed no point in contacting Hayter ..... I will do this myself for sure.
Clearly it looks like the gearbox ..... but just need to hope someone has had the same issue and fixed it !

- So now be interested in any tips on gearbox removal ? Trying to find what holds it onto the frame.

- Anyone who has pulled a gearbox apart and fixed it ?

(Yes my 13/30 was the 2002 vesion prob like yours where a mulching attachment was not made for it.)
Mulching is so essential ...... it transformed my cutting days and as i can pick up too have plenty of
grass for composting) Back then I didn't even know what it meant ........

pic attached of a 10/30 gearbox. how to remove and delve into it .....

I think these are the only connecting bolts to frame bar the rake / gearbox and belt connections.

(Not my gearbox - stock picture)

Never used anything like this but you never know - I assume you know it is really a Murray mower

https://www.justanswer.co.uk/sip/small- ... gLQCvD_BwE

I am hoping there is a mower mechanic online on this forum ......
We have got it down to the gearbox , transmission area

Update:
The drive pulley is loose when brake engaged but
when beake off (in drive mode) belt tight and pulley
doesnt turn so guess this is right.

For info (I'll update to the end on this one)

Removed transaxle (an hours job).
And it reveals that it must be internal to the transaxle.
Drive pulley ok , rotates but doesnt mesh with gears
Inside.

So clutch maybe. A few taps with a rubber mallet in case something is stuck? Pity you haven't wakened up somebody more knowledgeable than me.

Update.

Transaxle out as per pics. (pics reduced for site convenience)

Jacked up on tow bar, wheels off , brake and clutch disconnected from rear pins,
drive belt hooked over pulley, 4 bolts holding transaxle – now off

– if i put TA (Transaxle) in gear on bench and turn axles A and B they turn the other
side respectively. BUT not the drive pulley. that remains stationary.

– the drive pulley is made to pull off after removing a (circle hlding washer – cant think of the word) so the pulley itself is ok.

– When in gear , drive pulley on, and i turn the drive puller i can see for the smallest amount
of time the axles move for a millimeter but then stop and the pulley moves freeley.

So that is the analysis …… it must now be internal.
I will gunk down the TA and spray the bolts with pen’ oil and will consider
going deeper.

But I think i can find another for 100£ which may save me for now But still must get this fixed .......