Progress at Upper Barn after two seasons.

[Ricard with an H]

This has been hard work and whilst not equal to sorting out an allotment in my 70th year I don't have decent days work in me, a sore back and two replacements. Building raised beds is easy, filling them is hard work and I do wish I had placed that Ex-Met under the first three beds.

You'll spot the the sea buckthorn wind break hasn't produced berries this first year, the foliage is getting nice and thick but the bushes under the trees are noticeably thinner. Some serious pruning I think though i'm open to advise.

Oh-yes, I just realised why they named 'Rocket'. This little row came up in three days.

[peter]

Counter-intuitive this.

Vigorous growth should not be cut unless for access or safety.

Weak growth should be pruned, it triggers the plant into growth.

In other words pruning the trees is likely to produce keen regrowth which will increase the shade, unless you act like a giraffe and browse the new shoots.
The hedge plants would probably benefit from some judicious shortening of whippy stems to encourage multiple side shoots to try and take over from the leader.

Alternatively, does Sea Buckthorn tolerate laying, as in the traditional hedge treatment? If it does then let the grow leggy until long enough to lay

[Elaine]

I think you have done very well and it looks marvellous.

I agree with peter, regarding the hedge plants and the trees. We have a lilac in our back garden which my husband thought was too tall. Despite my saying it would make things worse, he lopped it down to around 5' and now it has produced so many side branches, it's more like a thicket than a tree and is a bally nuisance.

I don't know much about Sea Buckthorn, (other than, I love it) but it seems similar in habit to Pyracantha, which I planted around our front garden, to prevent the local children climbing on and over our wall. I did as Peter said and it thickened up in no time. It produces flowers and berries and is lovely. I just trim out the tall shoots every year to keep it in shape and to stop it getting out of hand....though, if it was used solely as a hedge, I would leave it alone to do it's own thing.

[Ricard with an H]

Alternatively, does Sea Buckthorn tolerate laying, as in the traditional hedge treatment? If it does then let the grow leggy until long enough to lay

Good point about the trees Peter, I planted the trees as a wind-break for the Barn on the south facing side. A strong southerly will lift the slate just enough to make them rattle. Considering your point about them creating even more shade i'm going to cull some of the extra trunks that came up like suckers and those trees do throw a lot of suckers and side-shoots. They are sycamore and grow faster than any tree I ever had.

I found quite a bit of information on sea buckthorn but mostly from those who farm it for the berries, nothing on clever pruning though so I have treated it like I treated any hedge. I've already cut the long grown twice and will do another session sometime shortly, I am trying to encourage bottom growth by being fairly merciless with the top growth and any leggy sides.

[Ricard with an H]

if it was used solely as a hedge, I would leave it alone to do it's own thing.

Thanks for the compliment Elaine, the sea buckthorn does seem very much like pyracantha. I planted sea buckthorn primarily as a wind-break for my raised beds
though I did have other choices for just a hedge, someone on this forum recommended sea buckthorn mostly because of our coastal environment. The bonus was the possibility of using the berries, not many have shown this first year.

[FelixLeiter]

The bonus was the possibility of using the berries, not many have shown this first year.

You are probably already aware that there are lady buckthorns and there are gentleman buckthorns. You won't see many berries if most of them are fellas. Also, regular pruning may be removing potential fruiting wood.

[Ricard with an H]

You are probably already aware that there are lady buckthorns and there are gentleman buckthorns.

The nursery who sold me the bare-root planting assured me of a good mix, when I planted them I wasn't able to sex the plant. Eventually when the plats produced buds I think I could detect a difference from some plants to others by the shape and size of the bud. I'm happy I have a mix though I would have preferred to plant the boys and girls in appropriate places.

Also, regular pruning may be removing potential fruiting wood.

Also without any advice or guidance I assumed the first year to be a comprise between the low growth I wanted and fruiting wood. Certainly the few berries that have shown are in the middle of plants where I haven't pruned.

Peter has given me another idea that might work, I noticed some long leggy growth low down on quite a few plants and whilst I doubt they could cope with the layering routine i'm going to plait this low growth in-amongst the lower sturdy growth (Like layering) in the hope it will fill-in the gaps.

I suppose if had to choose I would go for loosing the fruit and gaining a sturdy windbreak.

When I first came to Wales I had a chap from the environment agency visit to advise on a few matters of which hedging was one, he had advised I grew escalonia as one of the few bushes that do well in this environment. Escalonia doesn't do well here unless it's in pot's and put into shelter, out on the banks it just desiccates and goes all woody. I grew escalonia from cuttings then gave them to friends, they grow nicely in the shelter of housing.

[Ricard with an H]

broad beans have sprouted but I really don't know why i'm sowing broad beans now, if they'll survive winder in a cold frame or under fleece why can't I sow climbing beans and get them off to an early start.

I've sown wintering lettuce, thats up. Rocket, up. Tatsoi, up. Three rows of garlic, and cabbages.

I still have room for more, is it worth it ?

[FelixLeiter]

broad beans have sprouted but I really don't know why i'm sowing broad beans now, if they'll survive winder in a cold frame or under fleece why can't I sow climbing beans and get them off to an early start.

Climbing and broad beans do not compare when it comes to hardiness. Climbing beans of any stripe are not frost hardy, whereas broad beans need nothing more than protection from the most severe weather, wind and ice, to endure. Which is why they should not really be sown too early in the autumn: plants raised now tend to advance too much to have sufficient winter resilience — they get a bit too tall and luxuriant. Sowings in early November are usually the most successful, resulting in seedlings which are sturdy and robust. Even so, a bit of wind protection gives them a sporting chance. You need to grow a proven variety, too — summer varieties are not suitable. Aquadulce Claudia is one I can endorse.

[Ricard with an H]

Than-you Felix.

I'm ashamed that I don't know the variety of my broad bean though I will find out. Our small and very active garden centre buy from Moles and we buy them loose. I assume they'll remember what they stocked.

So climbing beans are out, i'm trying to resist not asking what appear to be dummy questions but then i'm sure most of you would be red-faced in the event those of us learners stopped asking. Eventually we'll become advisors, yes ?

I feel comfy in the hands of you-lot and look what you did so-far.

Get ready for an update on the two stroke issue most of us have every year and all based on stuff we shared early in the year when machines didn't start, I think this years hero will be Sally with her advise and hopefully my new examples.