This is a similar problem to that as recently highlighted by "Binky"
I have recently taken on a plot where the previous tenant had allowed it to deteriorate over the "decision months" before finally giving up due to health reasons. Needless to say the weeds ( bindweed + couch grass in particular) have been having a fine time multiplying during that time. I have now sprayed the plot twice with roundup and whereas most weeds and grass have been killed off, the bindweed seems to be thriving as before the first spray. The couch been reduced quite considerably.
For the second treatment I increased the mixture strength of the roundup to "bramble strength" but still the sprayed bindweed continues, for the most part, to grow strongly. Some of the treated plants have been killed off.
I have two questions. 1) does neat roundup lose its potency over a period - I have had this gallon container for a few years now. 2) Can bindweed be eradicated if the above ground leaves/growth is continually lopped off?
Another bindweed query
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mikepearce45
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Hi Mike,
Bindweed certainly needs to be in full leaf before spraying with Glyphosate as Glyphosate is absorbed by the leaves. My advice would be to let it grow but remove any flowers that appear and spray around the end of July. If this involves your plants train the bindweed up sticks or bamboo canes and grow it out of the crop so to speak cover the crop with polythene and then spray very carefully.
As an example I had a Hydrangea being choked by bindweed and I inserted bamboo canes and unwound the bindweed and transfered to the canes and then grew them over the lawn (covered with polythene) and then sprayed and to my amazement got a complete kill first time.
Neat Glyphoste should never be used for anything other than injecting newly cut tree stumps to kill off the roots and prevent sucker growth.
JB.
Bindweed certainly needs to be in full leaf before spraying with Glyphosate as Glyphosate is absorbed by the leaves. My advice would be to let it grow but remove any flowers that appear and spray around the end of July. If this involves your plants train the bindweed up sticks or bamboo canes and grow it out of the crop so to speak cover the crop with polythene and then spray very carefully.
As an example I had a Hydrangea being choked by bindweed and I inserted bamboo canes and unwound the bindweed and transfered to the canes and then grew them over the lawn (covered with polythene) and then sprayed and to my amazement got a complete kill first time.
Neat Glyphoste should never be used for anything other than injecting newly cut tree stumps to kill off the roots and prevent sucker growth.
JB.
JB.
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mikepearce45
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Hi Johnboy
Thanks for your reply. I am at present digging and clearing the plot by hand as there is so much bindweed - with each forking I can feel the roots snapping off deep below ground so I am only really clearing the top 10 inches or so and it is only a matter of time before the shoots re-appear. I have decided to abandon most planting this first year and will concentrate on clearing as much as possible so a July spray would appear to be a good idea.
You made no comment re the effectiveness of old stock Roundup nor whether bindweed would be weakened or slowly eradicated with their heads being continually lopped off. Do you have an opinion on either please?
M
Thanks for your reply. I am at present digging and clearing the plot by hand as there is so much bindweed - with each forking I can feel the roots snapping off deep below ground so I am only really clearing the top 10 inches or so and it is only a matter of time before the shoots re-appear. I have decided to abandon most planting this first year and will concentrate on clearing as much as possible so a July spray would appear to be a good idea.
You made no comment re the effectiveness of old stock Roundup nor whether bindweed would be weakened or slowly eradicated with their heads being continually lopped off. Do you have an opinion on either please?
M
Hi Mike,
Johnboy is correct Glysophate weedkiller is a great solution for clearing the area. I had a load myself and after seeing this post I used it. I left it 2 weeks and I saw the bindweed breaking down. I did, however, not put down polythene. It is too rainy here and there isn't sufficient drainage to put a sheet down. Spoke to A friend and he told me to order something like the stuff below; weed membrane (90gsm). Ordered today. Will report back soon.
Alan
Johnboy is correct Glysophate weedkiller is a great solution for clearing the area. I had a load myself and after seeing this post I used it. I left it 2 weeks and I saw the bindweed breaking down. I did, however, not put down polythene. It is too rainy here and there isn't sufficient drainage to put a sheet down. Spoke to A friend and he told me to order something like the stuff below; weed membrane (90gsm). Ordered today. Will report back soon.
Alan
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FelixLeiter
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mikepearce45 wrote:You made no comment re the effectiveness of old stock Roundup nor whether bindweed would be weakened or slowly eradicated with their heads being continually lopped off. Do you have an opinion on either please?
M
If old stock Roundup is what you have been using so far, and since it has been effective on couch grass, you say, then it's reasonable to conclude that it's still effective. Continually reducing above-ground growth is bound to weaken any plant, but weaken it is all it will do — you won't eradicate it this way. The most effective time to treat weeds with a translocated herbicide (Roundup and the like) is to spray in early autumn, just as the weeds are going dormant. It is then that the active ingredient is most readily transported to poison the whole of the plant.
Allotment, but little achieved.
Hi Felix,
It seems that there are several trains of thought as to the best time to spay perennial weeds with any Glyphosate preparation. At the end of the season is really not the time to do it. In my previous posting I suggested July and I stick by what I have written. To hit the plant that has the best green cover is the way to eradicate it. That is the recommendation from Monsanto who after all invented Glyphosate.
Pulling the heads of bindweed is likely to spread the weed and certainly is unlikely to weaken it one jot.
JB.
It seems that there are several trains of thought as to the best time to spay perennial weeds with any Glyphosate preparation. At the end of the season is really not the time to do it. In my previous posting I suggested July and I stick by what I have written. To hit the plant that has the best green cover is the way to eradicate it. That is the recommendation from Monsanto who after all invented Glyphosate.
Pulling the heads of bindweed is likely to spread the weed and certainly is unlikely to weaken it one jot.
JB.
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peter
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Glyphosate works best on a healthy and actively growing plant, it works on the growth points and growth enzymes/hormones. Now is a good time to use it, provided you have a dry spell to apply it in. 
The absorption pathway is the green tissues, i.e. the leaves.
The absorption pathway is the green tissues, i.e. the leaves.
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FelixLeiter
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A colleague of mine conducted independent trials back when Roundup was first released, one involving bindweed and another controlling mare's tail. It was most effective applied in mid to late September in both cases. At this time, the foliage is still quite green and, if it has been allowed to grow unhindered, at its most expansive to give a maximum application area. The results of the trial also emphasised that treatment is most effective when weeds have been left intact.
Allotment, but little achieved.
I hate Bindweed. We have it on our plot, coming from the neighbouring plot which is being neglected. Yards of it trailing right across our plot. 
We're considering spraying it as digging it out doesn't make a difference. We have put in canes so it grows up those rather than choking our crops but it's getting out of hand...and to think, we never used to have it makes me really ticked off.
We're considering spraying it as digging it out doesn't make a difference. We have put in canes so it grows up those rather than choking our crops but it's getting out of hand...and to think, we never used to have it makes me really ticked off.Happy with my lot
Hi Felix,
What I am trying to establish is what is the time to spray that will give the optimum effect.
I have suggested July but I do not discount other times. I take note of your colleagues valued observations.
We here have a Black Grass problem in cereals and we spray one day and plough in the next day and this seems to be very effective but we only have just that small window of opportunity. This may not achieve a 100% kill but certainly 80% would be more accurate but year on year the incident is reducing and we hope ultimately to eliminate it altogether.
Bindweed is a complete bane for so many gardeners it would be really useful if we could have a larger consensus.
There are two types of Bindweed. Hedge Bindweed (White Convolvulus) and Field Bindweed which has a pink flower are both pests but Hedge Bindweed is the chief offender. Even if you cannot or do not want to spray it is essential to deflower it at this time of the year to prevent more plants growing year on year.
My reason for spraying in July is to kill off the plants before they have a chance to bloom. Glyphosate may kill off a plant but may hasten the ripening process of any seedheads present.
JB.
What I am trying to establish is what is the time to spray that will give the optimum effect.
I have suggested July but I do not discount other times. I take note of your colleagues valued observations.
We here have a Black Grass problem in cereals and we spray one day and plough in the next day and this seems to be very effective but we only have just that small window of opportunity. This may not achieve a 100% kill but certainly 80% would be more accurate but year on year the incident is reducing and we hope ultimately to eliminate it altogether.
Bindweed is a complete bane for so many gardeners it would be really useful if we could have a larger consensus.
There are two types of Bindweed. Hedge Bindweed (White Convolvulus) and Field Bindweed which has a pink flower are both pests but Hedge Bindweed is the chief offender. Even if you cannot or do not want to spray it is essential to deflower it at this time of the year to prevent more plants growing year on year.
My reason for spraying in July is to kill off the plants before they have a chance to bloom. Glyphosate may kill off a plant but may hasten the ripening process of any seedheads present.
JB.
Hi Johnboy,
I was told that the best time to spray bindweed (white ) was when it was in full flower, as it has put all it's energy's into producing seed heads.
Hope this is of some help
Regards
Arnie
I was told that the best time to spray bindweed (white ) was when it was in full flower, as it has put all it's energy's into producing seed heads.
Hope this is of some help
Regards
Arnie
I've learned.... That the easiest way for me to grow as a person is to surround myself with people smarter than I am.
Hi Arnie,
Glyphosate is very unlikely to kill off the seeds of bindweed and could produce another generation of plants for next year.
If you were to wait until you see the first flower and then spray then there may be some benefit. Generally speaking glyphosate works best when the plants are at their most virulent growing period which is as they head up to flower.
JB.
Glyphosate is very unlikely to kill off the seeds of bindweed and could produce another generation of plants for next year.
If you were to wait until you see the first flower and then spray then there may be some benefit. Generally speaking glyphosate works best when the plants are at their most virulent growing period which is as they head up to flower.
JB.