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Pa Snip
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I've been down the greenhouse sowing seeds today.

Wondered if any of you have a set percentage you sow extra in case of germination failure.

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dan3008
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On my tomatoes I've sown double because I'm expecting a bad germination rate in my polly green house...

Peppers, I've sown 5 seeds, hoping for 2-3 plants

Beans and peas I always go with a third extra

Other than that, I tend to sow by space, rather than count
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Geoff
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Depends on the price of the seed. Some Tomatoes were only 10 in a packet so I sowed 5. I sow most things in module trays so use just a few extra modules but vary how many I put in each module then thin them as they germinate. Might put extra in if they are cheap or old. I have had a few more issues than usual this year and I need to check some packet labels; a few years ago we started buying from Moles, with their bigger packets I might be pushing the dates a bit.
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I used to do that but you can end up with a glut. What I do now is sow once, check success rate & if necessary sow again a bit later. They seem to catch up & if they don't it is a staggered crop.

That plan did not work at all with the parsnips last year though - total zilch, which OH explained was more to do with slugs or snails than actual germination.

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Pa Snip
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OH could well be right.
I wonder if another reason parsnips were so poor at germinating was down to ground temperatures.
My early sowings suffered 100% failure. My June sowing resulted in a good crop.

Plot holders on our site also suffered awful Runner and French bean germination with at least two or three sowings being made

Was very odd.

The danger when people start to believe their own publicity is that they often fall off their own ego.

At least travelling under the guise of the Pa Snip Enterprise gives me an excuse for appearing to be on another planet
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Pawty
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I work on a 50 % rule pretty much. For things started at home that I have a glut of, I take into work and give away (courgette, tomatoes..). I see it as a good way of getting other people to grow, and it's always appreciated - and doesn't really cost anything much in the scheme of things.

Tomatoes this year - 4 seeds to 5cm pots (6 varieties) - 100% germination. Chillies, same pot size and number of seeds, 60% success. Sweetcorn 60% (4 to a large pot).sweetpeas 6 to a pot -100% germination.

Runners, I grow the number I want in root trainers and infill with seeds directly in the ground to fill gaps. They're too difficult to carry in to work in one piece! Broad beans, generally good germination and grow straight in the ground, but again, infill when needed.

Generally, germination of runners and French bean was rubbish last year. I copied another plot holder and sowed loads of French beans directly in a row, assuming 50% (mice, birds, slugs) - was lucky to get 5 good plants. Back to pots in a cold frame this year.

Carrot, beetroot, spring onions, chard, etc..... Sow direct, way too many and thin out.

Brassicas, leeks, sweetcorn, celery - I sow in trays, thin out to nodules compost left overs) , and if I don't have enough room when it comes to planting out, give them to allotment neuighbours. All of these, are on the 50 % -75% for germination rule.

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sally wright
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Dear Pa Snip,
I end up sowing at least three times the number of plants indoors etc that I actually seem to need as I have lots of places and people who need young plants. Fellow allotment holders, friends, colleagues and various charities have nearly all my extra stuff. That said most get open pollinated seedlings or home saved seed(lings) as the seeds are much cheaper. I do keep the F1 stuff mostly for myself.
I rarely get any money back for them so I mentally write the cost off as my charitable donation/good deed for the year from my garden. I find that for about £25-30 I can grow a lot of plants such as courgettes, squash, beans, tomatoes, sweet peppers, aubergines, cucumbers, chillis, sprouts, broccoli, kale, leeks and various herbs. I can get the following from Moles quite cheaply and in large quantities.


*Aubergine black beauty 10g for £1.90 divided into 4 years is under 50p
*French beans; climbing and dwarf I usually save my own seed so they are "free"
*Runner beans ditto
*sprouting broccoli comes in 25g packets for £1.90 and lasts for 4 years so 2 x 50p
*Sprouts are only for mates at 250sd for £5.30 per packet 2 years out of those so this is around £5.00
*Celeriac 10g for £2.25 which lasts for at least 4 years so about 55p
*cucumbers are only for good mates and I get at least 2/3 years out of the 25sd passandra at £10.30 so about £3.50
*Basil is 10g for £1.90 and this is enough for at least 3 years so about 60p
*Leeks are home saved seed so they are Free
Chillis the open pollinated sorts are good value at £1.90 per packet for 50sd (some are even cheaper on Amazon) 4/5 var's is about £3
*Sweet peppers are about £1.90 for between 5-10g and will last for 4 years 4 var's is about £2
courgette green bush is £1.90 for about 60sd and that will be a years worth so £1.90
squash early butternut is 10g for £1.90 which is about 70 seeds this is a years worth so £1.90
Tomatoes are the open pollinated kinds such as Alicante, tigerella, roma etc. These are £2.50 for 1g which is over 250sd depending on who wants these I can get 2/3 years you of the packets so £2.50. The ones I grow for my own use are different to these.

as you can see the general total is under £25 for the seedlings that I give away although strictly speaking the total is less than this as the ones marked with an asterisk include what I need as well. The extra compost comes in at under a tenner and I get most of the pots back or I send them off in pots sizes I no longer want if they are going to charities.
Regards Sally Wright.
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Pa Snip
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Pawty, good information, Thanks.

Sally Wright That's what you call a comprehensive & informative answer indeed, Thanks

Unless it is a huge failure rate I don't think people notice too much, as Pawty says carrots and suchlike sow and thin.
Its the medium to large seed varieties that fail that are really noticeable (and therefore annoying).

Melons, Squashes, Peas & Beans, Sweetcorn.

Since posting, most of the sowings so far are germinating, with the exception of a freebie packet of Gardeners Delight tomatoes which has failed to show any signs of life so far.

The danger when people start to believe their own publicity is that they often fall off their own ego.

At least travelling under the guise of the Pa Snip Enterprise gives me an excuse for appearing to be on another planet
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retropants
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I always sow too much of everything, but that is OK, as I can usually find a home for the surplus. I rarely throw seedlings away, and it is with a heavy heart when I do.

This year, only 6 plum tomatoes appeared from 2 pots of about 20 seeds, and I like to have 16-20 plants to go into the big greenhouse (2 diff. varieties) and one pot of chili seeds did nothing whatsoever, So I have sowed a 3rd variety of plum tomato and bought fresh chili seeds. Hope it's not too late now, I'd never normally sow them this late!
sally wright
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Dear Pa Snip,
for the larger seeds you mention light is important in germination and to that end I sow these seeds as follows. Press the seeds into the surface of the compost and then cover with vermiculite . This allows the seeds to stay moist whilst still being exposed to the light. I also add 1/4 by volume of sand to the compost for these larger seeded varieties as I feel that the improved drainage makes a difference.

Another point is that I feel that these large seeds are over dried for packaging purposes and that the seeds have to plump up before germination starts. It is this lag between planting and the start of germination that allows rotting to set in and can ruin success rates. So what I tend to do is open the large seeded varieties' packets a few days in advance of sowing to allow them to absorb moisture from the atmosphere so they can start the process of germination immediately.

Regards Sally Wright.
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Pa Snip
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Thank you for your input Sally Wright

Interesting what you say about over drying, although I suspect its also partly a natural process given how long it is from packing to use.
Does account for why so many suggest the soaking of certain large seeds overnight immediately prior to sowing..

The danger when people start to believe their own publicity is that they often fall off their own ego.

At least travelling under the guise of the Pa Snip Enterprise gives me an excuse for appearing to be on another planet
sally wright
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Dear Pa Snip,
possibly, although I prefer my method as it means that you won't waste any soaked seeds or not have enough moistened to finish the rows etc.
Regards Sally Wright.
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Johnboy
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With runner bean seeds I select the seeds that I wish to grow then count how many I need I nick the skin opposite the scar and soak for four hours then I put them into a container with moist kitchen paper with the scar down and cover and keep moist at room temperature and plant into pots as soon as the radicle appears. Very few misses and very easily corrected if there are a few non starters.
JB.
Last edited by Johnboy on Mon Apr 11, 2016 11:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Pa Snip
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I was just looking at some of my notes from last year when I had 100% failure on first batch of runner beans.
Pretty sure now that they were too wet and rotted.

I now use a light mist spray from a bottle on all sowings until they have germinated and grown to reasonable size & strength.

My Gardeners Delight have started to show, about a week behind the other toms sown at same time

The danger when people start to believe their own publicity is that they often fall off their own ego.

At least travelling under the guise of the Pa Snip Enterprise gives me an excuse for appearing to be on another planet
sally wright
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Dear Pa Snip,
I am growing G D along with about 10 other varieties of tomatoes so I will let you know how my batch fares germination wise. I did notice that they were very small seeds compared to the other sorts and this may have a bearing on the germination rate.
Regards Sally Wright.
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