What Oil?

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beeman2
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I think it's about time I changed the Gearbox oil on my old Merry tiller Rotavator. What oil do I use Please ? Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Pa Snip
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I would see what oil your local machinery sales outlet/ repair shop has in stock. I suspect, but only suspect, straight SAE 30 would be the grade.

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I have a Merry Tiller and am considering changing to EP90 as the rotor bearings now weep gently. :?
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Pa Snip
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peter wrote:I have a Merry Tiller and am considering changing to EP90 as the rotor bearings now weep gently. :?



That's a very heavy grade Peter, commercial vehicle grade.

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Only use what is specified for a particular machine, check with a dealership. If a straight mineral oil is specified then use a straight mineral oil of the correct viscosity. Only use Extreme Pressure oil if it is specified, EP oils can cause problems such as attacking yellow metals at high temperatures and should not be used if straight mineral oils are specified. The following link suggests an SAE30 for the transmission of this particular model:

https://www.allotment-garden.org/rotava ... Manual.pdf

I am no expert in oils but do use 20W/50 multigrade mineral oils where SAE40 is specified and 15W/40 where a SAE30 is specified in my old tractors' transmissions but a straight mineral is preferable.

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Geoff
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It's a lot of years since I had a working Merry Tiller but I don't recollect a gearbox. If you mean the engine I think it is SAE30 as has been said. If you mean the crankcase that chain drives the rotors I think anything will do. It was so long ago I used to change car engine oil and I used that in the crankcase.
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I read somewhere a few weeks ago that no matter what oil should be used in an old engine it will perform just as good with a modern synthetic oil ,trouble is I can't remember were I read it I must be due an oil change
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Having owned and operated a fleet of classic commercial vehicles for 19 years before retiring in 2012 I would disagree with that statement.

Synthetics tend to break down quicker when used in older engines and therefore do not lubricate as well for so long.
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Briggs & Stratton manual says:

We recommend the use of a high quality detergent oil such as B&S 30 weight oil. Detergent oils keep the engine cleaner and retard the formation of gum and varnish deposits. No special additives should be used with recommended oils.
Air cooled engines run hotter than automotive engines. Use of multi-viscosity oils (10W30, etc.) above 40°F (4°C) will result in high oil consumption and possible engine damage. Check oil level more frequently if using these types of oils.
SAE30 oil, if used below 40°F (4°C), will result in hard starting and possible engine bore damage due to inadequate lubrication.
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I topped up the oil on the little Honda engine on the mantis on Saturday I followed the instructions to the letter ,put it in the car and went down the plot ,it would not start not only that but it locked up with oil coming out of the air filter as it started to rain we returned home and put the thing on the bench when I removed the spark plug I found the cylinder full of oil I had to drain a good bit out of it before it would start once started it ran ok I'm still puzzled as to what I've done wrong if anything
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This may be a really stooooooooooooooooopid question but here goes.

You had stored the Mantis upright ????

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I did I actually filled the oil on Friday it was stood upright all night
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Pa Snip wrote:
peter wrote:I have a Merry Tiller and am considering changing to EP90 as the rotor bearings now weep gently. :?



That's a very heavy grade Peter, commercial vehicle grade.


On my brand new RTT3 rotovater that is the recommended gearbox oil and I reckon it would be good for my elderly MT due to age related wrar and leakage.
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Pa Snip
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Morning Peter

With a RRP of around £1100 that RTT3 is a serious bit of rotavating kit. I'm therefore not surprised that takes 90 grade oil.

I had a completely different mental picture of the Merry Tiller you mentioned switching to 90 grade as I thought it more "lightweight" than the RTT3

In truth I am not experienced enough in garden machinery to say with conviction that switching to 90 grade would reduce the leakage or if over a period of time it would exacerbate the problem.

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peter
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Merry Tiller - Major, it is a serious and heavy machine, the rotors are akin to mattock blades, each held to the individual detachable unit by two massive rivets. It came with two pairs and I pretty much just use the inner pair. My mother bought it second-hand in 1979 and the old thing is probably due an overhaul, the engine eats oil now.
The clutch is close handle to move, but has a spring loaded (pop out) lock pin to keep it engaged, no reverse.

Thr RTT3 is my midlife crisis piece of red machinery :oops: and set me back £960, my pair of Howard 350's and associated implements were sold for a £300 contribution. Much much safer than the Howard it has a dead mans handle to operate, two actually - seperate reverse lever.
Let go of either and it stops immediately. Two forwad speeds and trick hubs, bit of a bugger to move around as both speeds are cultivating speeds and with the hubs on freewheel it runs away even on the level. :?:

One Howard rolled back on me as I was shutting the garden gate and as I turned round I knocked it into reverse. It pushed me through the gate (which had a stop preventing it from opening out) and slit my ankle open. My son heard my yells and got down the garden in time to prevent further damage. I thank my lucky stars the separate rotor lever didnt get knocked and that my son was in. :?
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